Rio de Contas: A historic city in the Chapada Diamantina

Rio de Contas is one of the tourist destinations in Bahia, attracting visitors not only for its natural beauty and ecological trails, but also for the memory preserved by the best preserved colonial houses in the region.

History and foundation

Located 620 kilometres from Salvador, Rio de Contas was the first town founded in the Chapada Diamantina in 1723, still as a village, according to the IBGE. Historical data indicate that the region was settled by escaped slaves from the coast of Bahia in 1687.

Origin of the name

The origin of the name “Rio de Contas” is linked to the history of the region and the presence of bandeirantes there. The name refers to a type of account, which was an object used to make notes or records, especially in trade activities and the exchange of goods.

Another explanation is that the name may derive from “contas” in the sense of “accounting” or “recording” the wealth that was exploited in the area, especially during the gold mining period.

Thus, “Rio de Contas” could symbolise the flow of wealth and the intense commercial activity that took place in the region during the 17th and 18th centuries.

City Features

Rio de Contas is considered to be Brazil’s first planned city.

The city has wide streets and large stone pavements. It is 56 km from Palmeiras and originated as a landing place where travellers stayed overnight, giving rise at the end of the 17th century to a town called Creoulos on the new route between Goiás and Salvador.

Some free blacks lived there as a community, justifying their first name. Then came the Bandeirantes and the Jesuits. With the discovery of gold deposits, the village grew and became the town of Nossa Senhora do Livramento das Minas de Rio de Contas.

Architecture and Culture

The old quarter preserves more than 400 houses from the 17th and 18th centuries with Baroque architecture, all of which have been restored, including the City Hall, the churches of Santíssimo Sacramento and Santana, and the São Carlos Theatre.

The Municipal Archive of Rio de Contas houses old newspapers, photographs and documents dating back to the 18th century.

Cinema and Tourism

The Main Square was used to film scenes from Behind the Sun, directed by Walter Salles.

Royal Road

The 6 kilometre stretch of the old Royal Road near Rio de Contas, made entirely of stones laid by slaves in the 18th century, is perfect for a walk with great views.

It was the main access to Livramento and is now one of the region’s biggest tourist attractions.

See the Chapada Diamantina map

See also Chapada Diamantina Tourist Attractions

Videos about Rio de Contas

Architectural wealth of Rio de Contas

1. Prison and Town Hall
2. Churches in Santana
3. Church of the Blessed Sacrament in Rio de Contas
4. São Carlos Theatre
5. Birthplace of the Baron of Macaúbas
6. Foundry House

Rio de Contas was the first planned city in the country, with wide squares and streets, Baroque churches and buildings from the second half of the 18th and early 19th centuries.

It is one of the rare colonial “new towns”, created by Royal Provision in 1745, which recommended a regular layout and architecture capable of ensuring its embellishment.

The buildings in the centre are among the most important and beautiful in Bahia. The houses and cobbled streets are very well preserved.

The town was a gold route and trading point on the Royal Road. The beauty of its streets was the setting for the film Behind the Sun (2001) by Walter Salles.

With many natural attractions in its surroundings, the city has some of the highest peaks in the Northeast. Among the peculiarities of the city are the traditional masked carnival and the quilombola and Portuguese villages.

1. Jail and Town Hall

This mansion housed the most feared prison in the Bahia highlands, which was located on the ground floor, along with the jailer’s house and the guardhouse. The second floor housed the town hall and the audience. One of the peculiarities of the building is the Town Bell, installed in the doorway of one of the windows on the second floor.

It is located in Praça Senador Tanajura, formerly Praça da Matriz, and is very visible. It is undoubtedly the most photographed building in the city.
Former jail and town hall, now the Forum of the City of Rio de Contas.

2. Churches in Santana

This is a very rare example of a church with three naves and a choir that communicates with the side sacristies. Built by slaves in the first half of the 18th century, it was never completed.

Work stopped around 1850, when the population moved to the diamond mines of Mucugê, Lençóis and Andaraí.

In 1914, heavy rains caused the roof of the church to collapse, and it wasn’t until 1960, after it was declared a Historic-Artistic Monument by IPHAN, that new work was carried out to preserve it.

3. Church of the Blessed Sacrament in Rio de Contas

The Mother Church is the best example of religious architecture to be found in the entire Bahian interior. Built in the 18th century, it was never completed.

It was built in stone by slave labour and has remarkable carpentry.

The high altar and the two side altars are all gilded. The ceiling of the choir is decorated with an Italian-inspired illusionist painting.
Santíssimo Sacramento Church, Rio de Contas.

4. São Carlos Theatre

One of the three oldest theatres in Brazil and the oldest in the interior of Bahia. Opened in 1892, it has hosted countless performances by local groups and productions from other parts of Brazil. It is currently used as a space for educational and cultural activities.

5. Birthplace of the Baron of Macaúbas

The birthplace of Abílio César Borges, Baron of Macaúbas (1824-1891), a great Brazilian educator.

Probably built at the beginning of the 20th century, it is a typical example of the Diamond Residences, with mixed use (residential and commercial). It currently houses the IPHAN Technical Office and the Municipal Archive of Rio de Contas.

6. Foundry House

Foundry house where gold was melted and turned into ingots. It is currently the seat of the City Council of Rio de Contas.

Attractions in Rio de Contas

1. Almas Peak
2. Fraga Waterfall
3. Andorinhas Waterfall
4. Barbado Peak

1. Pico das Almas

At a height of 1,958 metres, Pico das Almas is not for beginners, but the adventurers who reach its summit have an incredible view of the entire Chapada Diamantina.

2. Fraga Waterfall

Very close to the city, this is an easily accessible leisure option. The fountains are great for swimming. There is a bar nearby.

3. Andorinhas Waterfall

Located in a cave, this is one of the most beautiful places in the Chapada.

4. Barbado Peak

At an altitude of 2,050 metres, this is the highest point in the Northeast and the most visited by mountaineers. Its extraordinary natural beauty is mainly due to its strange rock formations and the presence of evergreens, bromeliads and orchids.

From the top, there are panoramic views of neighbouring peaks such as Pico das Almas and Pico de ltaobira. Talk to the staff at the Rio de Contas Tourist Information Centre for reliable maps.

See also the History of Rio de Contas.

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