Home » Bahia Travel Guide » Chapada Diamantina Travel Guide » Rio de Contas, Bahia: things to do, history and peaks

Rio de Contas (BA): things to do, history, waterfalls and peaks

Rio de Contas is one of the oldest towns in the Chapada Diamantina, in Bahia. Born during the gold cycle, the town still preserves colonial mansions listed by IPHAN, churches that were never finished and streets that seem frozen in time. In addition, at more than 1,000 metres above sea level, it lies close to the three highest peaks in the Northeast and dozens of waterfalls. For this reason, it is a great, quieter alternative to Lençóis.

Videos about Rio de Contas

Where it is and what the town is like

Rio de Contas lies in the south of the Chapada Diamantina, on the Serra das Almas plateau, on the banks of the rio Brumado. Because of this, at more than 1,000 metres above sea level, it has a mild climate, with cold nights in winter. Moreover, the historic centre is small and easy to explore on foot.

On the other hand, unlike Lençóis, the town receives fewer tourists. As a result, the trails and waterfalls are usually emptier, and the pace is much more relaxed.

History of Rio de Contas

From the settlement of Creoulos to the gold town

First of all, at the end of the 17th century, travellers coming from Goiás and northern Minas Gerais on their way to Salvador set up a resting point on the banks of the rio de Contas Pequeno, today the rio Brumado. According to tradition, runaway and freed enslaved people also lived there. Therefore, the settlement was named Creoulos, and it gained a small chapel dedicated to Nossa Senhora Santana.

Shortly afterwards, the São Paulo bandeirante (frontier explorer) Sebastião Raposo found gold in the rio Brumado. Then, prospectors founded the mining camp of Mato Grosso further upstream, where, according to tradition, the Jesuits built the Chapel of Santo Antônio. Soon after, in 1718, the parish of Santo Antônio de Mato Grosso was created there, the first in the Alto Sertão (the high backlands) of Bahia.

Next, in order to control gold smuggling and the collection of the quinto (the royal fifth tax on gold), the viceroy Vasco Fernandes César de Meneses instructed colonel Pedro Barbosa Leal to found a town. Thus, in 1724, the Vila de Nossa Senhora do Livramento do Rio de Contas came into being, about 12 km downstream from Creoulos.

The move of 1745 and the planned town

Since the town was far from the mining sites and suffered from floods, the Crown ordered it to be moved. So, in 1745, the seat was transferred to Creoulos, on the plateau where the current town stands. There, a new town was then laid out, with straight streets, squares, a Casa de Câmara e Cadeia (town hall and jail), a Casa de Fundição (smelting house) and a pillory.

For this reason, many consider Rio de Contas one of the first planned towns in Brazil. After all, unlike other gold towns, which grew spontaneously, it followed a regular layout from the very beginning. Indeed, by 1746, according to records of the time, the new town had about 30 houses, a church and a hospital.

Decline of gold and preservation

At its peak in the 18th century, incidentally, the town controlled an enormous territory, from central Bahia to the coast at Itacaré. However, gold production fell from 1800 onwards. Later, from the 1840s, many residents left for the diamond mines of Mucugê, Lençóis and Andaraí.

Even so, the town remained a stopover on the Caminho Real and on the pilgrims’ route to Bom Jesus da Lapa. In 1885, it became a city, under the name Minas do Rio de Contas, according to IBGE. Finally, in 1931, it came to be called simply Rio de Contas.

Interestingly, the decline helped preserve the heritage. Since there was no new economic cycle demanding demolitions, the old mansions survived. Later on, the listing of the ensemble by IPHAN guaranteed its conservation.

Curiosities about Rio de Contas

• Origin of the name: there is no consensus. For example, some versions link “contas” to trade records; others, to the accounting of gold.
• Traditional communities: in Mato Grosso, at about 1,500 m, live descendants of Portuguese settlers who, according to accounts, for a long time only married among themselves. Further down, meanwhile, lie the quilombos (communities founded by people who escaped slavery) of Barra and Bananal.
• Historical archive: the Municipal Archive holds letters of manumission, ecclesiastical rulings and other documents from the colonial period.
• Rare flora: in the 1980s, researchers from the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, in London, and from Brazilian institutions catalogued more than a thousand plant species on the Pico das Almas, several of them new to science.
• Cinema: the main square was a filming location for Abril Despedaçado (Behind the Sun, 2001), by Walter Salles.
• Carnival: finally, the celebration is known for its masked revellers and folk traditions.

Historic centre of Rio de Contas

In short, the historic centre covers about 19 hectares and brings together hundreds of mansions from the 18th and 19th centuries. Originally, the houses were white, with blue window and door frames, lined up along wide streets. That is why walking through the town feels like going back in time.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora Santana

Built by enslaved labour in the 18th century, the church has, above all, three naves, an extremely rare layout for the period. However, it was never finished: work stopped around 1850, with the exodus to the diamond mines. Then, in 1914, the roof collapsed during heavy rains. Only after the listing by IPHAN were the ruins stabilised. Today, therefore, it is the greatest symbol of the end of the gold cycle.

Igreja Matriz do Santíssimo Sacramento

On Praça Senador Tanajura, the mother church is considered one of the finest examples of religious architecture in the Bahian sertão. Built in the 18th century in stone masonry, it also has gold-leafed altars. In addition, the ceiling of the main chapel features an illusionist painting of Italian inspiration.

Casa de Câmara e Cadeia

Also on the main square, it is the most photographed mansion in town. The jail, considered the most feared in the high sertão, operated on the ground floor; meanwhile, the Council and the hearing room were on the upper floor. As a curiosity, there is a “people’s bell” attached to the frame of one of the windows. Today, the building houses the Courthouse.

Casa de Fundição and former town hall

In the past, at the Casa de Fundição, gold from the mines was melted down and turned into bars. Today, the building houses the Municipal Government. In addition, the former town hall, also from the colonial period, completes the ensemble of historic public buildings.

Teatro São Carlos

On Largo do Rosário, this small late-19th-century theatre is one of the oldest in inland Bahia, with about 120 seats. In the past, the audience brought their own chairs and, since women were not allowed to act, men played the female roles. Today, it hosts cultural and educational activities.

Birthplace of the Barão de Macaúbas

It was here, incidentally, that the physician and educator Abílio César Borges, the Barão de Macaúbas, was born in 1824; among his students were Rui Barbosa and Castro Alves. Currently, the mansion houses the IPHAN technical office and the Municipal Archive.

Waterfalls and nature outings

Ponte do Coronel (Sete Poços)

Without a doubt, this stretch of the rio Brumado, with rapids and natural pools of various depths, is the place most sought after by visitors. As a result, it appeals to children and adults alike. Moreover, it has a simple bar and an area for picnics and camping.

Cachoeira do Fraga

The town’s postcard image, this waterfall has a drop of about 18 metres, with a view of the Serra das Almas. Since it is close to the centre and has a bar nearby, it is one of the easiest options.

Cachoeira do Brumado

On the other hand, at about 100 metres high and with four drops in a row, this is the largest waterfall in the municipality. The descent takes effort; in return, the top of the falls offers great photos. In fact, it already appears in the drawings by Theodoro Sampaio from 1879.

Poço das Andorinhas

Hidden in the Serra do Porco Gordo, this crystal-clear pool sits next to a small cave from which swallows fly out. Along the way, there are other pools and small waterfalls. Because it is still little visited, it offers plenty of peace and quiet.

Cachoeira do Jiló and Poço Preto

Also on the rio Brumado, the Cachoeira do Jiló has small rapids that are good for swimming. Following the same route, about 13 km from the centre, lies Poço Preto, which is about 6 metres deep. Nearby, incidentally, Fazenda Vaccaro produces organic cachaça.

Cachoeiras do Mocotó and do Raposo

First, the path to Mocotó passes through coffee plantations and a viewpoint overlooking the peaks, the rio Brumado dam and the quilombo of Barra. The Cachoeira do Raposo, by contrast, is small and hidden in the forest and is therefore ideal for small groups.

Estrada Real

Paved with stones laid by enslaved people in the 18th century, this road (the Royal Road) carried the gold and supplied the town. Today, a well-preserved stretch of about 6 km makes for a beautiful walk with views of the mountains. In the past, it was the main route to Livramento.

To discover other waterfalls in the region, see our guide to the highest waterfalls in the Chapada Diamantina.

Highest peaks in the Northeast

Finally, the three highest points in the Northeast surround the town. For all of them, however, hire a local guide. See also our itinerary for trekking to the Almas, Barbado and Itobira peaks.

Pico das Almas (1,958 m)

The third-highest point in the Northeast, the Pico das Almas is not for beginners. In return, the view from the summit takes in a large part of the Chapada. In addition, it is a botanical sanctuary, studied by the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, with plants that exist only there. For this reason, collecting plants in the mountains is an environmental crime.

Pico do Itobira (1,970 m)

The second-highest in the Northeast, Itobira has orchids, bromeliads, canela-de-ema plants, everlasting flowers and carnivorous plants along the way. From the top, you can see the Pico das Almas, the Serra do Barbado and the rio Brumado dam. Furthermore, along the route there is a small waterfall and pools for swimming.

Pico do Barbado (2,033 m)

The highest point in the Northeast, Barbado lies on the border with Abaíra and Rio do Pires. Interestingly, the name comes from the bearded howler monkey (macaco barbado), which used to live in the mountain forests. There are two routes: one takes about 6 hours of walking, there and back, and the other up to 14 hours. From the top, moreover, the view reaches the Morro do Pai Inácio and the Três Morros of Piatã. Before you go, therefore, check with the tourist information office.

How to get there and practical tips

• From Salvador: it is about 600 km by car; the final stretch, on the BA-148, passes through Livramento de Nossa Senhora.
• By plane: the nearest airport with scheduled flights is usually Vitória da Conquista; however, check the routes before booking.
• Best time: from April to September, in the dry season, ideal for trails and peaks; even so, bring warm clothes, because the nights are cold.
• Guides: especially for the peaks and the Poço das Andorinhas, hire a local guide.
• Itinerary: in 3 to 4 days, you can see the historic centre and the nearby waterfalls, and also climb one of the peaks.

Frequently asked questions about Rio de Contas

Where is Rio de Contas?

Rio de Contas is in the south of the Chapada Diamantina, in Bahia, about 600 km from Salvador.

In addition, it sits at more than 1,000 metres above sea level, so it has a mild climate.

What is there to do in Rio de Contas?

First of all, visit the historic centre, the Santana and Matriz churches, the Ponte do Coronel and the Cachoeira do Fraga.

For adventure lovers, there are also trails to the highest peaks in the Northeast.

Why was the Igreja de Santana never finished?

Work stopped around 1850, when many residents left for the diamond mines.

Then, in 1914, the roof collapsed in the rains.

How many days should I spend in Rio de Contas?

In general, 3 to 4 days are enough.

However, set aside a full day if you want to climb the Pico do Barbado.

When is the best time to visit Rio de Contas?

Generally, from April to September, in the dry season, which is ideal for trails.

Even so, bring warm clothes, because the nights are cold.

This post is also on: