Campo Formoso (BA): caves, history and things to do

Published on January 1, 2013 · Updated on October 24, 2026

Home » Bahia Travel Guide » Campo Formoso (BA): caves, history and things to do

Campo Formoso, in the north of Bahia, is known for its caves and its emeralds. Within its territory, for example, lies the Toca da Boa Vista, the largest known cave in Brazil, with more than 114 km of mapped passages. In addition, the town is one of the oldest settlements in the Bahian backlands, with a history that dates back to the 17th century.

Quick summary – Campo Formoso (BA)

Where it is: north of Bahia, west of the Serra da Jacobina, near Senhor do Bonfim.
Distance: about 400 km from Salvador.
Population: 71,377 inhabitants (IBGE 2022 Census), in an area of more than 7,100 km².
Caves: Toca da Boa Vista, Toca da Barriguda, Pontes do Sumidouro, Gruta do Convento and Gruta da Tiquara.
Emeralds: the region is one of the largest producers in the country.
Note: however, the large caves are not open to tourism; only authorized researchers may enter.

Toca da Barriguda in Campo Formoso, Bahia

Together with the neighboring caves, such as the Toca da Barriguda, the Toca do Calor de Cima, the Toca do Pitu and the Toca do Morrinho, the Toca da Boa Vista forms a complex of worldwide geological importance. For this reason, the municipality attracts speleologists and paleontologists from many countries.

Where Campo Formoso is and how to get there

In short, the municipality lies in the north of Bahia, west of the Serra da Jacobina, in the Senhor do Bonfim microregion. Although it is close to the caatinga (the dry, thorny scrubland of northeastern Brazil), the town center has a mild climate, with nights cooled by the winds that sweep through the surrounding hills.

To get there, first travel from Salvador to Senhor do Bonfim, a journey of about 380 km. Then, a paved road of approximately 24 km leads to the town. Thus, the total route is about 400 km.

Map of the geographic location of Campo Formoso BA

Municipal boundaries

North: Juazeiro and Sobradinho.
South: Antônio Gonçalves, Mirangaba and Umburanas.
East: Senhor do Bonfim and Jaguarari.
West: Sento Sé.

The municipal territory also includes the Vale do Salitre, whose river flows into the right bank of the São Francisco River.

Videos about Campo Formoso

Grutas de Campo Formoso05:08

Toca da Boa Vista - maior caverna do Brasil

Campo Formoso e suas grutas06:46

Caçadores de Esmeraldas12:15

História de Campo Formoso06:44

Curiosidades sobre as esmeraldas de Campo Formoso06:45

Toca da Boa Vista em Campo Formoso na Bahia

03:44

Caves of Campo Formoso

The municipality has dozens of limestone caves, with a wide variety of internal formations. Next, take a look at the main ones.

Toca da Boa Vista

The Toca da Boa Vista is the largest known cave in Brazil, with more than 114 km of mapped passages, according to the most recent surveys. It is also worth remembering that much of the mapping was carried out by the Grupo Bambuí de Pesquisas Espeleológicas. Besides its size, the cave has an unusual morphology and is therefore very rich from a scientific point of view.

Passage of the Toca da Boa Vista in Campo Formoso

The numerous fossils found there have expanded knowledge about Pleistocene mammals, such as giant ground sloths. At the same time, the cave is used in studies of paleoclimatology and karst geology.

Speleothems of the Toca da Boa Vista in Campo Formoso

The cave also has speleothems of exotic mineralogy and rare morphology. In fact, it is a large dry labyrinth, ranging from narrow passages to huge chambers.

Chamber of the Toca da Boa Vista in Campo Formoso

Of these, the largest is the Salão Telécio (Telécio Hall), which honors José Telesphoro, a local leader and one of the first to recognize the cave’s potential. Among the most beautiful sections, in turn, are the Conduto dos Discos Voadores (Flying Saucers Passage), the Além Mundo (Beyond the World), the Novo Mundo (New World), the Terceiro Mundo (Third World) and the final stretch, called Fim de Mundo (End of the World).

The cave is well preserved, since entry is restricted to speleologists and scientists. Moreover, as there is still no approved management plan, tourist visits are not allowed. Therefore, before any expedition, check with ICMBio.

Map of the caves and grottoes of Campo Formoso

Toca da Barriguda

Next door to the Toca da Boa Vista, the Toca da Barriguda has about 35 km of mapped passages. Today, in fact, many speleologists consider it a branch of the same system. In several respects, however, it is more scenic than its larger neighbor.

Just like its neighbor, the cave has large chambers adorned with stalactites, stalagmites and flowstones. The highlight is the Conduto da Caatinga (Caatinga Passage), with about 16,400 m², both for the “forest” of stalagmites on the floor and for the ceiling full of domes. In addition, the fossil bones and paleoenvironmental evidence make it a true natural museum.

Chamber of the Toca da Barriguda in Campo Formoso

Pontes do Sumidouro

The Pontes do Sumidouro (Sinkhole Bridges) complex consists of three limestone bridges over the Pacuí River. In fact, they are the remains of a large cave through which the river once ran underground. Meanwhile, the gaps between the bridges are stretches where the roof of the ancient cave collapsed.

The first bridge is 85 m long and has many fallen blocks, with few speleothems. Curiously, a road runs over it. The second, at 305 m, has more stalactites, cascades and curtains; in addition, the floor is made of damp clay, left behind by the river’s floods.

Then, after walking about 95 m along the banks, you reach the third bridge. At 310 m, it is the largest and most beautiful, full of travertines, columns and cave pearls. There, the river flows between bluish rocks and coarse sand, which sparkles in the caatinga sun.

Gruta do Convento

Near the village of Abreus, the Gruta do Convento is very spacious and has several natural skylights. Besides its beauty, it also has religious value: for decades, pilgrims have visited the image of Nossa Senhora Aparecida venerated there.

Historically, it has been known since the 18th century, when the saltpeter mines of Abreus were worked. Since the passages are horizontal, the route is easy; in addition, the skylights let in light and provide access to the surface.

The state of conservation is good, because the passages are large and there are almost no speleothems within visitors’ reach. The intermittent streams Queixo d’Anta and Tanquinho, which rise in the Serra do São Francisco, flow into the cave. In the past, moreover, a large tributary of the Pacuí River ran through it.

Toca da Onça or Gruta da Tiquara

Almost within the urban perimeter of the village of Tiquara, the Toca da Onça holds some rock paintings. According to the archaeologist Valentim Calderón, the drawings resemble the tradição São Francisco, with geometric strokes, common in Minas Gerais.

Unfortunately, the paintings were badly damaged by saltpeter extraction in the 1930s and, later, by graffiti. Even so, the cave is important for understanding the region’s rock art, since its strokes differ from those found at other nearby sites.

Emeralds and other outings in Campo Formoso

Emeralds: the municipality and neighboring Pindobaçu form one of the main emerald hubs in Brazil. For this reason, the town has already hosted fairs of gemstones and handicrafts.
Boqueirão da Onça: part of this large area of preserved caatinga lies within the municipality; learn more in the guide to Boqueirão da Onça.
Town center: at the top of the Morro dos Alecrins, you will find the shops, the churches and the old mansions.

History of Campo Formoso

The place began as the settlement of Santo Antônio da Jacobina, in the 17th century. At the time, “jacobinas” was the name given to the lands of low, thorny vegetation in the backlands. The region was inhabited by Indigenous peoples such as the sapoiás, paiaiás and secaquerinhens, of the kiriri group. Later, around 1655, the first missionaries arrived and found dozens of villages.

Old photo of the town of Campo Formoso, Bahia — Old photo of the town of Campo Formoso

Among the first Portuguese, there were above all Bahian bandeirantes (colonial explorers), such as Belchior Dias Moreia, linked to the legendary silver mine, and his son Robério Dias. Francisco Dias d’Ávila, of the Casa da Torre, also passed through, as did Bento Surrel, who discovered the saltpeter mines of the Vale do Salitre.

In 1682, according to tradition, the settlement became a parish by act of the first archbishop of Bahia, Dom Gaspar Barata de Mendonça. Then, in 1722, the town of Jacobina was established elsewhere, because the vicar and the lord of the Casa da Torre rejected the settlement. As a result, the old seat came to be called Freguesia Velha de Santo Antônio.

Saltpeter, cattle and emancipation

Campo Formoso station, undated. Reproduced from the book Lampião e a Maria Fumaça, by A. A. Araújo and L. R. Bonfim

On the other hand, progress came with saltpeter, extracted at Pacuí and in other mines in the region. The ore traveled by mule to the port of Salvador and, from there, to Portugal, where it was turned into gunpowder. Later, in turn, came cattle raising, with ranches and corrals.

In 1770, the residents asked King Dom José I to make the settlement a town, but nothing was decided. Consequently, it was only on July 28, 1880, through Provincial Law No. 2,051, that the town of Campo Formoso was created, separated from Vila Nova da Rainha. Its installation, in turn, took place on July 22, 1883. Finally, according to IBGE, State Decree No. 10,724 of March 30, 1938, raised the seat to the status of city.

The town today

On the slope of the Serra da Jacobina, Campo Formoso is a town of steep streets and hills. On the Morro dos Alecrins, you will find the commercial center, the public offices, the hotels, the churches and the old houses. As it grew, however, the town spread across the hills, forming neighborhoods such as Esplanada, São Francisco, Vila Pernambucana, Santa Luzia, Colina do Sol and Baixa dos Tapuias.

Frequently asked questions about Campo Formoso

Where is Campo Formoso?

It is in the north of Bahia, west of the Serra da Jacobina, about 24 km from Senhor do Bonfim.

In other words, it is about 400 km from Salvador.

What are the tourist attractions of Campo Formoso?

The highlights are the caves: Toca da Boa Vista, Toca da Barriguda, Pontes do Sumidouro, Gruta do Convento and Gruta da Tiquara.

In addition, the region is famous for its emerald mines.

How big is the Toca da Boa Vista?

It has more than 114 km of mapped passages and is the largest known cave in Brazil.

However, it can only be visited by authorized researchers.

Can you visit the caves?

The Gruta do Convento, which receives pilgrims, and the Pontes do Sumidouro are the easiest to access, preferably with a local guide.

The large caves, on the other hand, are not open to tourism; therefore, check with ICMBio.

When did Campo Formoso become a city?

First, the town was created in 1880 and installed in 1883; then, it became a city in 1938.

Even so, the settlement emerged as early as the 17th century.

Written by Willy Sievert

Editor of Bahia.ws since its founding in 2009. Based in Salvador, he travels frequently across the Northeast and all of Brazil to keep the guides up to date. Learn more about Willy Sievert →