Juazeiro do Norte and Crato: the heart of Ceará’s interior

Juazeiro do Norte is the largest city of the Ceará interior, founded in 1911 by Father Cícero Romão Batista, known and revered throughout the interior as “Padim Ciço”.

The name “Juazeiro” refers to a tree typical of the northeastern interior, known as the juazeiro (Ziziphus joazeiro), a hardy plant found in arid and semi-arid areas.

This tree symbolises the adaptation of the people to the difficult conditions of the region.

The addition of the term “do Norte” was a way of distinguishing Juazeiro do Norte from another city called Juazeiro, located in Bahia.

The hinterland of Ceará

The hinterland of Ceará is vast and rich, inhabited by a people of strong religiosity. However, it suffers from frequent droughts, so severe that they have been the subject of several books and movies.

The Northeastern Sertão covers a large part of Bahia, the state of Pernambuco, Paraíba, Rio Grande do Norte and Piauí; the whole of Ceará and a small part of Sergipe and Alagoas.

It includes areas dominated by a semi-arid tropical climate (hot and dry), with high average temperatures between 28°C and 45°C (exceeding 42 °C in Raso da Catarina, Bahia and the central-south of Piauí) and two well-defined seasons: one dry and one rainy.

Rainfall in the Sertão is concentrated in just three or four months of the year, and the average rainfall in the Sertão reaches 750 mm per year, with some areas receiving less than 500 mm of rain per year.

Life in Juazeiro do Norte

Juazeiro do Norte currently has several woodcutters, a wealth of handicrafts and a good network of hotels and restaurants, although there are problems with signposting and traffic.

Three major pilgrimages take place in the city: on September 15th, between October 30th and November 2nd, and from January 30th to February 2nd.

In addition, the date of Father Cícero’s birth – 20 July – attracts many of the faithful. On these occasions, Juazeiro comes alive: pilgrims arrive from all over the northeast in lorries, buses, cars, donkeys, horses, carriages, motorbikes and bicycles. Schools are closed and there is a shortage of hotels.

The 300,000 or so devotees present at each pilgrimage sing songs in honour of the priest; some dress up like him, wearing straw hats and black clothes.

The older ones usually do this on the 20th of each month, in honour of the priest’s birthday.

The Horto Hill in Juazeiro do Norte, known as the Padre Cícero Hill, lights up at night to guide those arriving in the city. Stone steps lead to the top, where the Church, the Museum and the famous Statue of the Priest are located.

From there you have a privileged view of Juazeiro, where there are five churches: the parish church of Nossa Senhora das Dores, the sanctuary of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, the chapel of Nossa Senhora do Perpétuo Socorro, the basilica of São Francisco and the parish church of Nossa Senhora de Lourdes.

Situated 495 kilometres from Fortaleza, on the BR-116 road, Juazeiro do Norte is the main starting point for exploring the attractions of neighbouring cities such as Crato, Nova Olinda and Santana do Cariri.

Father Cícero

Cícero Romão Batista (Father Cícero) was born in the city of Crato on 24 March 1844. In 1872, two years after his ordination, he had a dream in which Jesus Christ asked him to look after the poor people of the then arraial of Juazeiro.

A verdade sobre o Padre Cícero

Cícero answered the call and settled in the village.

The first of the miracles attributed to the religious was the transformation of a wafer into blood at the communion of a blessed woman. The news spread through the hinterlands.

After Monsignor Francisco Monteiro, rector of the seminary in Crato, publicly announced that Cícero was working miracles and organised a pilgrimage of 3,000 people to Juazeiro, the Catholic Church reacted: At the Vatican, the Congregation of the Holy Office wanted to excommunicate him, but, fearing the repercussions – the priest was also allied with colonels – and the popular reaction, it backed down and confined itself to preventing him from saying mass.

The priest became the mayor of Juazeiro do Norte. As time went on, the town grew and the devotees settled there to be closer to the priest, who died in 1934 at the age of ninety, adding to the mystique on which the town was based and from which it survives.

Points of interest in Juazeiro do Norte

1. Statue of Father Cícero

At the top of the Horto Hill in Juazeiro do Norte, next to the Living Museum, the imposing statue of the religious man was erected: 25 metres high and 8 metres wide, it adds to the height of the hill and is surpassed in total height only by the Christ, the Redeemer.

During the pilgrimages, its surroundings become crowded, attracting not only pilgrims who flock to touch the priest’s cassock, but also souvenir sellers and beggars who tell various stories about the “padim” in search of a few dollars. Horto Hill, 8 km from the centre.

2. Padre Cícero Memorial

The house where Father Cícero lived has been turned into a Museum and preserves the bedroom with the bed, the desk, the clothes (including ceremonial clothes), the cupboards, the crockery and the kitchen he used. Padre Cícero was in Juazeiro do Norte for the first time on Christmas 1871, when he celebrated the Mass of the Rooster.

When he died in 1934 at the age of 90, he already had the status of a saint – not recognised by the Vatican.

To learn more about his life, visit his Memorial, which contains personal objects, books about his achievements and photographs.

There are also items left by devotees in gratitude for the blessings they have received – from football team banners and wedding photographs to stuffed animals and plaques of thanks. R. S. José, 242, Centre.

3. Chapel of Our Lady of Perpetual Help

The smallest and simplest of the churches in Juazeiro do Norte is the one that has the honour of guarding the tomb of Father Cícero, an immense treasure for those who venerate him.

During pilgrimages, it is crowded with pilgrims who go in procession to the parish church or to Horto Hill. Cinquentenário Square, Socorro.

4. Padre Cícero’s Living Museum

A religious atmosphere reigns in this huge house, full of ex-votos of all kinds and plaster replicas of the priest left by thousands of devotees.

At the entrance, it’s worth looking at the many books dedicated to the religious. Horto Hill, 8 km from the centre.

5. Mestre Noza Popular Culture Centre

The Juazeiro do Norte Craftsmen’s Association is currently housed in the Mestre Noza Popular Culture Centre, where artists pay homage to the great Brazilian sculptor.

Dozens of artisans work in this large thatched shed, Juazeiro’s main craft centre. You’ll find a variety of wooden and plaster sculptures, including images of Lampião, Luís Gonzaga, Father Cícero, animals and dolls. R. S. Luís, s/n, Centre.

6. Lira Nordestina Cordel Literature Printing House

The space is divided into a large room where the printing is done, with old type and machinery, and another where the collection of cordéis for sale is displayed.

The themes include popular festivals, traditions and local characters, as well as tributes to personalities such as Patativa do Assaré, Lampião and Guimarães Rosa. Av. Castelo Branco, 150, Rumerão.

City of Crato

Crato was officially founded in 1853. Located just 10 kilometres from Juazeiro do Norte, the city is full of springs which, despite the semi-arid climate, ensure pleasant temperatures all year round.

Close to the immense Araripe, plateau and forest, and with a good selection of hotels, restaurants and bars, it can be an alternative place to stay when Juazeiro do Norte gets crowded between September and February.

Considered the cultural capital of the Ceará interior, Crato is home to folklore groups, xylographers such as Valderedo, Literary and Cordel Awards (at the Academia do Cordelista), as well as hosting reisados such as those led by Mestre Aldemir and promoting lively June festivals.

The streets of the town of Crato are lined with trees, and the paths that lead up to the hills of the plateau are lined with huge houses, and the countryside is perfect for cycling (you need to bring your own, as there are no bikes for hire). You can cycle all year round in the shade of the trees.

The Belmonte climb takes you from 460 metres to 1,000 metres in 50 minutes.

Another option is to walk, horse ride or cycle the 27 kilometre trail from the Cruz viewpoint to the Coruja viewpoint, enjoying the beautiful local forest.

Access from Fortaleza, from which Crato is 533 kilometres away, is via the BR-116 to Icó, From there, to avoid the potholes, it’s best to drive through the towns of Iguatu, Várzea Alegre and Farias Brito.

Around Juazeiro do Norte and Crato

PATATIVA DO ASSARÉ MEMORIAL FOUNDATION

Since 1999, the small town of Assaré, 60 kilometres from Crato and 70 kilometres from Juazeiro do Norte, on the CE-292 motorway, has kept alive the memory of its most illustrious son, the popular poet Antônio Gonçalves da Silva, Patativa do Assaré (1909-2002).

Born into a peasant family, Patativa published six books in which he described with good humour the ills of the Northeast and told picturesque stories of rural life.

He became known throughout the country after Luís Gonzaga set his poem “A Triste Partida” to music.

The Patativa do Assaré Memorial Foundation displays manuscripts, personal objects, works by the author, books of regional poetry and various studies.

In an audiovisual room, you can see the poet recite his verses and watch him perform alongside Luís Gonzaga. R. Cel. Francisco Gomes, 82, Centre.

SANTANA DO CARIRI PALAEONTOLOGICAL MUSEUM

Located in the heart of the Santana Formation, the most important fossil deposit in Brazil and the largest in the world in terms of fossil fish records, the museum belongs to the Regional University of Cariri.

This is a must for anyone staying in nearby Crato, about 50 kilometres away, or in Juazeiro do Norte, 65 kilometres away.

The 7,000-piece collection consists of more than 750 fossil fragments collected from excavations in the area, including those of a pterosaur.

On the ground floor there is a model of the region, replicas of fossils and explanatory panels; upstairs there are fossils grouped by type, including dragonflies, fish and plants.

The ease with which finds of great archaeological importance can be obtained from the formation has made it a target for international smugglers.

Today, the Santana do Cariri policy encourages the making of replicas, such as those sold in the museum.

Guides can give a guided tour. It’s worth extending your walk in this small town on the edge of a large valley, overlooking the Chapada do Araripe and enjoying the landscape of old houses. R. Dr José Augusto, 326, Centro.

CASA GRANDE FOUNDATION

Inaugurated in 1992, the Foundation is the attraction of Nova Olinda, on the way to Santana do Cariri, 41 kilometres from Crato and 51 from Juazeiro on the CE-292.

The small town is home to the modest Cariri Man Memorial, whose collection of utensils, polished stones and ceramics reveals the culture and traditions of the Cariri indigenous group.

The Foundation also houses the Sertão Children’s School of Communication, where local children receive educational support and produce programmes for local radio and television. Av. Jeremias Pereira, 444, Centre, Nova Olinda.

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