Paulo Afonso, Bahia: Canyons, Falls and Top Sights

Published on January 1, 2013 · Updated on October 21, 2026

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Discover Paulo Afonso: Natural Beauty, Adventure and Culture in Bahia

Paulo Afonso, in the northern backlands (sertão) of Bahia, lies on the banks of the São Francisco River (rio São Francisco), on the border with Alagoas, Pernambuco and Sergipe. Above all, the city is famous for its canyons, for the old waterfall, for the Chesf hydroelectric plants and for the history of the cangaço. Therefore, it is an ideal destination for anyone who enjoys adventure tourism, nature and backlands culture.

Quick summary – Paulo Afonso (BA)

Where it is: in the northern backlands of Bahia, on the banks of the São Francisco River, about 460 km from Salvador.
Population: 112,870 inhabitants (IBGE Census 2022).
Highlights: above all, the São Francisco canyon, the Hydroelectric Complex, Casa de Maria Bonita and Raso da Catarina.
Note: the waterfall is almost dry for most of the year, because the water is diverted to the power plants.
Tours: for example, boat trips through the canyon, Ilha do Urubu and trails in the caatinga.
Close by: in addition, the Cânion do Xingó (Xingó Canyon), in Canindé de São Francisco (SE) and Piranhas (AL).

The Cachoeira de Paulo Afonso

The waterfall gave the city its name. In fact, all together, its falls reach about 80 meters in height amid sheer rock walls. However, since the power plants were built, most of the São Francisco’s water passes through the turbines. As a result, the waterfall stays almost dry for much of the year.

Today, it only flows strongly again when Chesf opens the floodgates during the river’s flood periods. Consequently, on these occasions, the spectacle draws visitors from across the region. So, if your goal is to see the waterfall in full flow, follow the news about the river’s flow before you travel.

Cultural riches and the cangaço

In addition, the region preserves the memory of the cangaço, the bandit movement of the Brazilian backlands. After all, Maria Bonita, Lampião’s partner, was born in the village of Malhada da Caiçara, which is now part of the municipality. Today, the Museu Casa de Maria Bonita operates there, dedicated to Brazil’s most famous cangaceira (female bandit of the cangaço). Learn more about Lampião and the cangaço.

Moreover, the Igreja de São Francisco de Assis stands out, as do the sites with rock paintings left by ancient peoples thousands of years ago.

Among the natural attractions, in turn, are the Serra do Umbuzeiro, the São Francisco River and the Estação Ecológica Raso da Catarina (Raso da Catarina Ecological Station). Incidentally, this protected area of caatinga (the dry thorny scrubland of Northeast Brazil), created in 2001, is home to rich biodiversity and unique rock formations. It also served, in fact, as a hideout for Lampião.

Adventure and extreme sports

The city is a meeting point for fans of extreme sports. For instance, the canyon walls are used for rappelling and climbing, while the dirt roads of the caatinga host mountain bike and motocross trails.

Meanwhile, Ilha do Urubu, in the São Francisco River, is a leisure area with bars and a place to swim. On the other hand, the boat trips through the canyon reveal rock walls more than 100 meters high.

Food and handicrafts

In general, the cuisine is typical of the backlands. For example, it is worth trying buchada de bode (goat offal stew), bode assado (roast goat), carne de sol (sun-dried salted beef) and the fish from the São Francisco River. As for local handicrafts, they include leather goods and lace.

Complexo Hidrelétrico de Paulo Afonso

First of all, the city grew up around Chesf’s hydroelectric complex. Initially, construction began in 1949, and the first plant, Paulo Afonso I, was inaugurated in 1955. As a result, the energy transformed the infrastructure of the Northeast. Then, in 1958, the city became independent from Glória and turned into a municipality.

Today, the complex brings together the Paulo Afonso I, II, III and IV plants and the Apolônio Sales (Moxotó) plant, with more than 4,000 MW of installed capacity. Furthermore, the dams and lakes form an impressive landscape.

Videos about Paulo Afonso

Pontos Turísticos de Paulo Afonso na Bahia04:13

Drone faz Tour pela prainha de Paulo Afonso03:57

Paulo Afonso Guia Turismo04:49

Serra do Umbuzeiro em Paulo Afonso01:17

Raso da Catarina - Sertão Baiano01:00

Museu de Maria Bonita16:36

SOBREVOANDO A ILHA DE PAULO AFONSO12:49

Paulo Afonso attractions

Cachoeira de Paulo Afonso: falls of about 80 meters, full only when the floodgates are opened.
Casa de Maria Bonita: above all, a museum dedicated to the famous cangaceira.
Hydroelectric Complex: power plants with more than 4,000 MW of capacity.
Igreja de São Francisco de Assis: a Catholic church with striking architecture.
Rock paintings: archaeological sites with art that is thousands of years old.
Estação Ecológica Raso da Catarina: preserved caatinga, with rich flora and fauna.
Serra do Umbuzeiro: offers hikes and, also, panoramic views.
Boat trip: finally, a cruise through the canyon of the São Francisco River.

Igreja de São Francisco de Assis in Paulo Afonso — Igreja de São Francisco de Assis

Raso da Catarina ecological reserve in Paulo Afonso — Raso da Catarina ecological reserve

Serra do Umbuzeiro in Paulo Afonso — Serra do Umbuzeiro

Tours in the region

Besides, the city is a good base for exploring the Baixo São Francisco. About an hour’s drive away lie the famous Cânion do Xingó, with catamaran tours departing from Canindé de São Francisco (SE), and the historic town of Piranhas (AL). See also the guide to the São Francisco Valley.

How to get to Paulo Afonso

The city is about 460 km from Salvador, and the most common way to get there is by car or bus. The city also has an airport, but the availability of scheduled flights varies a lot. For this reason, check with the airlines before planning your trip.

Finally, the climate is hot and dry all year round. So, bring sunscreen, a hat and plenty of water on your outings.

Frequently asked questions about Paulo Afonso

Where is Paulo Afonso?

Paulo Afonso is in the northern backlands of Bahia, on the banks of the São Francisco River, about 460 km from Salvador.

In addition, the city borders Alagoas, Pernambuco and Sergipe.

Does the Cachoeira de Paulo Afonso still exist?

Yes, but it is almost dry for most of the year, because the water is diverted to the hydroelectric plants.

In fact, it only flows strongly again when Chesf opens the floodgates during flood seasons.

What is there to do in Paulo Afonso?

Above all, the main tours are the boat trip through the canyon, the Casa de Maria Bonita, the Hydroelectric Complex and Ilha do Urubu.

In addition, you can visit the Cânion do Xingó, about an hour’s drive away.

How many inhabitants does Paulo Afonso have?

According to the 2022 IBGE Census, the municipality has 112,870 inhabitants.

Thus, it is one of the largest cities in the Bahian backlands.

Was Maria Bonita born in Paulo Afonso?

Yes. Maria Bonita was born in the village of Malhada da Caiçara, which today belongs to the municipality.

That is why the house where she lived now serves as a museum.

Written by Willy Sievert

Editor of Bahia.ws since its founding in 2009. Based in Salvador, he travels frequently across the Northeast and all of Brazil to keep the guides up to date. Learn more about Willy Sievert →