Churches of Salvador, Bahia: Architectural and Historical Treasures

The churches of Salvador, Bahia are architectural and historical treasures that reflect the rich cultural heritage of the city, which was the first capital of Brazil and an important centre of Catholicism during the colonial period.

With architectural styles ranging from Baroque to Neoclassical, these churches are not only places of worship but also landmarks of Brazilian history and art.

Religious Life in Salvador

Religious devotion is a defining characteristic of the people of Salvador. This is illustrated by the 160 churches scattered throughout Salvador, Bahia – true monuments from the 17th and 18th centuries that clearly demonstrate the power of Catholicism at that time.

Afro Culture and Candomblé

As well as religious temples, the Afro-Brazilian culture of Candomblé is also evident throughout Salvador – from the acarajé stalls, with their baianas dressed in white in honour of Oxalá, to the more than 500 terreiros scattered throughout the city.

Religious Highlights

Among the most impressive religious buildings in Bahia, the Church of São Francisco stands out. The interior is almost entirely covered in gold – more than 100 kilos of the precious metal were used in its decoration.

When light streams in through the church doors, the dazzling reflection is a spectacle in its own right. This usually happens around 5 pm, when the doors are opened so that the congregation can attend Mass.

The Church of Senhor do Bonfim is also one of the most famous, mainly due to the traditional washing of the steps.

The ceremony, which is always held on the second Thursday after Three Kings’ Day, brings together women from Bahia in traditional dress and hundreds of earthenware pots filled with perfumed water. As well as the washing ritual, the interior of the church is striking for its ceiling paintings, created in 1820 by the Spaniard Francisco Velasco.

These churches and their traditions bear witness to the rich history and cultural diversity of Salvador, which continues to enchant visitors and residents alike.

Videos about the churches in Salvador – History and Architecture

See also The Development and History of the Visual Arts in the North-East and the Historic Centre of Salvador

Churches in Salvador, Bahia

1. Key Features

The colonial churches of Salvador, Bahia, are important examples of religious architecture in Brazil and reflect the cultural, historical and artistic richness of the city, which was the country’s first capital. These churches, built between the 16th and 18th centuries, are characterised by a combination of European styles, adapted to local conditions and materials, and are often decorated with elements that reflect the cultural diversity of Bahia.

1. Baroque and Rococo styles

• Baroque: The predominant style in Salvador’s colonial churches is the Baroque, which is characterised by a wealth of decoration, featuring exuberant ornamentation, gilded woodcarvings and intricate altars. This style seeks to create an intense sensory experience, combining art and architecture to inspire religious devotion. The Church of São Francisco is one of the most outstanding examples of this style, with interiors clad in gold.
• Rococo: Towards the end of the colonial period, some churches incorporated elements of the Rococo style, a lighter and more graceful style characterised by more delicate ornamentation and the use of softer colours. This style is evident in some chapels and side altars within the churches.

2. Gilded Woodcarving

• Gilded woodcarving is one of the most striking features of Salvador’s colonial churches. The interiors of the churches are often lined with carved wood covered in gold leaf, particularly on the altars, pulpits and side chapels. This woodcarving, known as ‘talha’, demonstrates the skill of the craftsmen of the time and the opulence that the Catholic Church sought to convey.

3. Portuguese Tiles

• Many churches in Salvador feature Portuguese tile panels, which were used both for decoration and to depict scenes from the Bible and the lives of the saints. These tiles, brought from Portugal, were mainly used in cloisters and corridors, such as at the Church of São Francisco, where the tiles depict scenes from the life of St Francis of Assisi.

4. Understated façades

• In contrast to the richly decorated interiors, the façades of Salvador’s colonial churches tend to be more sober and austere. Built of stone or mortar, the façades are generally simple, with few ornaments, but feature typical Baroque elements such as curved pediments, niches for images of saints and portals with ornate mouldings.

5. Plants with a Latin Cross shape

• Most of Salvador’s colonial churches were built according to a Latin cross plan, which is the traditional layout for Catholic churches, featuring a central nave, side chapels, a transept (the intersection of the nave and the transverse arm) and a high altar. This layout is not only functional but also symbolises the cross of Christ.

6. The Influence of Catholicism and Religious Syncretism

• The colonial churches of Salvador are deeply influenced by the Catholic faith, but they also reflect religious syncretism – a fusion of Catholicism and African religions. Some churches, such as the Church of Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos, have strong links to Afro-Brazilian culture and are attended by communities of people of African descent who blend Catholic and Candomblé religious practices.

7. Use of Local Materials

• Although they follow European architectural styles, the churches of Salvador were built using local materials such as stone, mortar and tropical timber, adapting European techniques to the climate and the resources available in Bahia. This resulted in robust buildings, capable of withstanding the test of time and the tropical climate.

8. Decor with Local Influences

• As well as European elements, the colonial churches of Salvador incorporate local influences into their décor. This is evident in the depictions of saints, who often bear a resemblance to the local population, and in the artistic expressions that reflect Afro-Brazilian culture.

9. The presence of richly decorated side chapels and sacristies

• Many of these churches have side chapels and sacristies that are just as richly decorated as the main altar. These areas were used for specific devotions and also to house liturgical objects and relics, and were often adorned with gilded woodcarvings, paintings and tiles.

10. Altar-Mor Monumental

• The high altar in Salvador’s colonial churches is usually the focal point of the church interior, elaborately decorated with gilded woodcarvings, religious images, paintings and relics. These altars were designed to impress the faithful and enhance the religious experience.

2. History and Architecture

The colonial churches of Salvador are veritable museums of religious art and embody the blend of European and African influences that have shaped Bahian culture.

1. Primatial Cathedral Basilica of Salvador
2. Convent of Santa Teresa
3. Church of the Afflicted
4. Bonfim Church
5. Basilica of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception of Praia or Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception of Praia
6. Church of Our Lady of Mont Serrat
7. Church of Our Lady of the Rosary of the Black People
8. Church and Convent of St Francis
9. Church of the Third Order of St Francis
10. Church of Our Lady of the Pillar and Saint Lucy
11. Church of Our Lady of the Seas
12. Our Lady of the Marshes Parish
13. Church and Convent of Santa Clara do Desterro
14. Santa Dulce dos Pobres Shrine
15. Church of Our Lady of Victory
16. St Anthony’s Church, Além do Carmo (Santo Antônio Além do Carmo neighbourhood)

1. Primatial Cathedral Basilica of Salvador

Founded: 1672

Location: Terreiros de Jesus, Pelourinho, in the Historic Centre of Salvador.

Regarded as the ‘mother church’ of all Catholic churches in Salvador, the Cathedral Basilica hosts the state’s main liturgical services, presided over by the primate archbishop.

The mother of all churches in Bahia has bells imported from Portugal and, inside, ornate altarpieces from different periods.

Built in a genuine Baroque style, the church houses a magnificent collection of religious art. It is the largest church built by the Jesuits in Brazil.

The Cathedral Basilica of Salvador is regarded as one of the most important churches in Bahia. A 17th-century monument, it was the fourth church built by the Jesuits in the capital of Bahia, between 1652 and 1672, and is the last remaining part of the architectural complex of the Colégio de Jesus.

Designed by Brother Francisco Dias, it has 13 altars, the first two of which were built in the Mannerist Renaissance style.

The façade is built entirely of lioz stone, imported from Portugal, and the niches beneath the doors depict Saint Ignatius of Loyola, Saint Francis Xavier and Saint Francis Borgia.

Following the departure of the Jesuits from the country, the church was abandoned and was even used as a military hospital and as Brazil’s first School of Medicine, which was established there in 1833.

Back in 1938, the church was listed individually by IPHAN, and this protection also extends to its entire collection.

Find out more about the history and architecture of the Cathedral Basilica of Salvador

2. Convent of Santa Teresa

Location: Rua do Sodré, 276, Centro

One of the attractions of this monastery is the Museum of Sacred Art, one of the p

one of the main museums in the North-East, with a permanent exhibition of religious artefacts from the colonial period.

This mid-17th-century complex is regarded as one of the most important examples of religious architecture from the Brazilian colonial period.

It boasts beautiful gardens with panoramic views of Todos os Santos Bay, making this one of the most pleasant spots in historic Salvador.

The building houses the Museum of Sacred Art, run by the Federal University of Bahia, with a collection of around 1,400 items – including wooden and terracotta figures, sculptures, paintings, tiled panels, silverware and furniture – dating from the 16th to the 19th centuries.

See also History of the Convent and Church of Santa Teresa, or the UFBA Museum of Sacred Art, in Salvador, Bahia

3. Church of the Afflicted

Location: Rua dos Aflitos

The Church of the Afflicted was built with money from alms and donations made by the Portuguese António Soares, who founded the church in the 18th century on a slope of the geological fault, where Av. do Contorno was built in the 20th century.

From there, you can see the sea and the houses in Gamboa. It’s so beautiful

, the spot is one of the few remaining viewpoints overlooking Todos-os-Santos Bay in Salvador.

The area around the temple is also worth a visit, particularly the houses with their typical 19th-century architecture. Open to visitors Monday to Friday, from 8 am to 12 noon and from 2.30 pm to 6 pm.

4. Bonfim Church

Founded: 1745

Location: Senhor do Bonfim Square, in the Bonfim neighbourhood, a place known as the Sacred Hill.

Bahia’s most famous religious temple is neither the largest nor the most beautiful.

However, throughout its 237-year history, it has borne the weight of Bahia’s history and culture. Inside, two of the most popular attractions are the Hall of Miracles and the Museum of Ex-Votos.

It is the most popular church in Bahia. The traditional washing of the steps of the Igreja do Bonfim attracts thousands of pilgrims, worshippers and tourists on the second Thursday of January, after Epiphany.

The façade is partly covered in tiles. The interior of the temple was built in the Neoclassical style.

The gates surrounding the site are adorned with thousands of Senhor do Bonfim ribbons – symbols of Bahian faith – placed there by worshippers from all over the world who visit the temple and make requests to the saint.

One of Salvador’s hallmarks is the Senhor do Bonfim ribbon; these are handed out at the church dedicated to the saint of the same name, situated in Largo do Bonfim, which is regarded as a historic landmark of the capital of Bahia.

As well as picking up the traditional ribbons and making their wishes, visitors can admire the architecture of the church, which dates back to 1745.

Visitors to the temple can also experience the popular Lavagem do Bonfim, which takes place on the second Thursday of the year and is considered the second-largest popular festival in Bahia, second only to Carnival.

5. Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, Praia

Location: Rua da Conceição da Praia, in the Comércio neighbourhood, close to two of Salvador’s major landmarks: the Lacerda Elevator and the Mercado Modelo.

Founded: 1549

Spacious, naturally lit and overlooking the sea, the Church of Nossa Senhora da Conceição da Praia, or Basilica of Nossa Senhora da Conceição da Praia, was prefabricated in the Alentejo region of Portugal. The lioz stones were numbered in the Alentejo and brought to the colony, where they were assembled in 1765.

The greatest treasure is on the ceiling of the nave, which features an illusionist painting created in 1772 by the master José Joaquim da Rocha, founder of the Bahian School of Painting and one of the leading figures of the Brazilian Baroque.

The church houses the ruins of Salvador’s first house of worship and was founded by Brazil’s first Governor-General, Thomé de Souza.

The Baroque-style church features the only 3D ceiling painting in Latin America.

The artwork was created in the shape of a ship and measures 633.60 m² and is 18.20 cm high. It was painted using oil paints.

The neoclassical façade sets it apart from the other colonial churches in Bahia, with its diagonally arranged towers. It is open on Mondays from 7am to 12 noon and from 2pm to 5pm; Tuesday to Friday from 7am to 5pm; and on Saturdays and Sundays from 7am to 12 noon.

Read the History of the Basilica of Nossa Senhora da Conceição da Praia

6. Church of Our Lady of Mont Serrat

Location: Rua Santa Rita Durão, Ponta do Humaitá.

Founded: 1580

The exact history of the founding of the original sanctuary of Nossa Senhora do Monte Serrat is unclear, but some believe it was built by the Governor of Brazil, Francisco de Souza, at the same time as he built the Fort of São Felipe, which was founded in 1580.

The architectural complex dates from the second half of the 17th century and was designed by the Italian architect Baccio de Filicaya.

The little church was built by the Governor-General of Brazil, Francisco de Souza, at the same time as he built the Fort of São Felipe. Francisco de Souza donated the church to the Monastery of São Bento.

The Church and Monastery of Monte Serrat have been listed by the National Institute of Historic and Artistic Heritage (IPHAN) in recognition of their cultural significance.

In the early 20th century, it was refurbished and the high altar was adorned with ornaments from the Church of São Bento. It houses a statue of Saint Peter the Penitent, created by Friar Agostinho da Piedade.

Built between the 16th and 17th centuries next to the Porte de Mont Serrat, the church stands on a rock jutting out into the sea, giving the impression that it is part of the landscape.

7. Church of Our Lady of the Rosary of the Black People

Founded: 1685

Location: José de Alencar Square, in Largo do Pelourinho, Salvador’s Historic Centre.

A building that forms part of Pelourinho’s architectural heritage, the church, with its Rococo-style façade, was built specifically to welcome worshippers who had emigrated from the African coast.

Built between 1704 and 1796, the Church of Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos was first laid out in 1704. Completed in 1796, it was built by slaves and has given the heart of the Historic Centre a blue hue.

A legacy from the period before abolition, the church grounds contain a slave cemetery.

The façade, with its Rococo pediment, features finely crafted works and beautiful towers. Inside, the highlights include the tiled panels, neoclassical altars and three 18th-century statues: Our Lady of the Rosary, Saint Anthony of Cartagena and Saint Benedict.

The ceiling panel is by José Joaquim da Rocha.

Its distinctive feature is its religious identity. It was built by enslaved Black people of the Christian faith, who had no place in which to practise their beliefs.

During Mass, the congregation sing and dance to the sound of atabaques, agagogôs and tambourines, instruments associated with African culture.

According to the prior of the brotherhood, Leomar Borges, this is the only church dedicated to Black saints to hold the title of Third Order, granted by the curia on 2 July 1899. The church is built in the Rococo style and features neoclassical altars.

These Masses are characterised by an unusual blend of religious syncretism, in which Candomblé and Catholicism coexist side by side.

On Tuesdays at 6 pm and on Sundays at 10 am, Mass is celebrated to the sound of the atabaques used in African rituals.

8. Church and Convent of St Francis

The first disciples of St Francis of Assisi arrived in Salvador in 1587, the year in which the first convent was probably founded.

A few decades later, during the Dutch invasion of 1624, both the church and the friars’ quarters were reduced to rubble, and it was necessary to undertake the reconstruction of the complex.

And, as the order grew, in the year 1686, the Franciscan superior, Friar Vicente das Chagas, oversaw works that involved not only an extension but, in effect, the construction of a new convent and a new church, which were to be considerably larger than their predecessors.

So, on the feast day of St Anthony that year, the foundation stone of the new church was laid.

The work spanned many years and involved several generations of friars.

In 1713, under the leadership of the superior, Friar Hilário da Visitação, the church already had altars (though not yet gilded) and was consecrated. However, the building’s overall structure would not be completed until ten years later, when the façade, entirely clad in stone, was finished.

Throughout the 18th century, many additions were made to enhance the beauty of the Church and Convent of São Francisco: new altars were built (and the existing ones were gilded), the ceiling was decorated, the walls were clad with Lisbon tiles, balustrades were installed, and so on.

This church is considered one of the most beautiful in Brazil, and one of the finest examples of Portuguese Baroque architecture in the world.

9. Church of the Third Order of St Francis

Founded: 1703

Location: Rua da Ordem Terceira, Pelourinho, Historic Centre.

A striking example of the Baroque style in Brazil, the Church of the Third Order of St Francis, situated in Salvador, Bahia, had its foundation stone laid on 1 January 1702.

Its ornate high-relief façade, carved from hewn limestone with sandstone corners, features a marble statue of Saint Francis in its central niche.

The original Baroque interior was replaced by Neoclassical altars between 1827 and 1828.

The Portuguese tiles, however, have largely been preserved and can be found throughout the cloister, the consistory, the corridors and the galleries of the church.

They depict scenes of Lisbon before the earthquake that destroyed the city in 1755 and the wedding procession of Prince Dom José and Dona Maria Ana de Bourbon.

The church also houses important works of religious art, such as the sculpture of the dead Christ weeping ruby tears, by Francisco das Chagas Xavier, as well as a hall of saints where life-size images of the saints are on display.

The Church of the Third Order of St Francis was built between the 17th and 18th centuries and its architecture is reminiscent of the Spanish Baroque style.

Inside the church, there are paintings on the ceiling and a collection of Portuguese tiles from the colonial period. Among the interesting facts about the church is the claim that over a tonne of gold was used in its interior decoration.

10. Church of Our Lady of the Pillar and Saint Lucy

Founded: 1710

Location: Praça do Pilar, 55, in the Comércio neighbourhood.

Built in the Rococo style, with stucco decorations and delicate paintings, the church’s main attraction is the fountain of Saint Lucy, known as the patron saint of eyesight.

Thousands of worshippers visit the church and bathe their eyes in a fountain located inside the church, in the belief that their eyesight problems will be cured.

11. Church of Our Lady of the Seas

Foundation: The current parish church was built between 1930 and 1956.

Location: Praça Padre Manoel da Natividade, in Largo dos Mares.

However, the Church of Nossa Senhora dos Mares – the first church dedicated to the saint – had been founded in the same region almost 200 years earlier, in 1749. The building was demolished to make way for the construction of the new church.

It is the only church in Bahia built in the Neo-Gothic style, characterised by its vertical lines, pyramid-shaped roof, pointed towers and an abundance of windows and rose windows.

12. Our Lady of the Marshes Parish

Founded: 7 July 1980, during Pope John Paul II’s first visit to Brazil.

Location: Rua Luiz Régis Pacheco, in the Alagados area, in the Uruguai neighbourhood.

Unlike secular churches, this church was built in a contemporary architectural style, clad in exposed brickwork that forms rectangular and circular shapes.

The church is situated in a suburb on the outskirts of the capital of Bahia.

13. Church and Convent of Santa Clara do Desterro

Founded: 1677

Location: Rua Santa Clara, S/N – Nazaré, Salvador

The Convent of Santa Clara do Desterro was founded in 1677, when four nuns from the Order of St Clare in Évora, Portugal, came to Brazil to establish religious education.

When they arrived in Bahia, they remained on board the ship for 10 days, waiting for some building work to be completed at the Convent, which until then had been nothing more than a small church known as Desterro.

Founded in 1681 on the site of a small church and the Hospício do Desterro, which at the time had five or six cells, it is the country’s first convent for nuns.

The Poor Clares’ convent is laid out around two cloisters, with the church situated on one side of them.

The architectural composition is highlighted by the tower, dating from the first half of the 18th century and featuring a bulbous dome, situated in the section separating the cloisters, and also by the viewing platform – a common feature in convents for nuns – which was used there for the first time in Bahia.

The church, which is spatially integrated into the rectangular layout of the building, comprises a single nave, a chancel, a ‘lower choir’ and an ‘upper choir’, as well as a side entrance, and features neoclassical decoration resulting from the 19th-century renovations.

On the first floor of the convent is the Chapel of the Most Holy Crucifix of Passos, with an altar and altarpieces dating from the 19th century.

The convent houses a large collection of household goods, silverware and furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries.

In 1907, by decree from the higher authorities, the order ceased to train nuns, as the novitiate had been banned. The few surviving Poor Clares gradually passed on their teachings and duties to their successors, the Franciscan sisters.

To carry on the work of the Poor Clares, there are currently 20 sisters at the Convent of Desterro, who are responsible for running an orphanage for 50 children.

The older girls, says Sister Maria do Rosário, help with sewing, making sweets and liqueurs, and kitchen work; these items are sold to ensure the boarding school can be maintained.

In addition, the Convent currently runs a day school, and the school fees it collects provide financial support for its charitable work.

Over the course of its three centuries of existence, the Convento do Desterro has undergone a number of repairs, but it still retains much of its original structure.

See also the History of the Church and Convent of Santa Clara do Desterro

14. Sanctuary of Saint Dulce of the Poor

Founded: 2003

Location: Av. Dendezeiros do Bonfim, at Largo de Roma, Salvador

Known as ‘Saint Dulce of the Poor’, Sister Dulce was canonised in October 2019 by Pope Francis, becoming the first saint born in Brazil.

The shrine is home to the tomb containing the remains of the ‘Good Angel of Bahia’, as she is known to many of the faithful.

At the Santa Dulce dos Pobres Sanctuary, visitors can also attend Mass and learn a little about the life and work of Sister Dulce at the memorial which chronicles her life and work.

Always keeping its doors open to welcome and provide spiritual support to those most in need, the Santa Dulce dos Pobres Shrine has been in operation since 2003 and was built thanks to the help of the faithful and donations.

The sanctuary is situated in Salvador, next to the headquarters of the Sister Dulce Social Works (OSID) in Largo de Roma, and can seat over 1,000 people.

Construction of the church began in 2002, following the ‘Brick Campaign’, on the very site where, in the 1940s, Sister Dulce had built the Círculo Operário da Bahia and the Cine Roma.

Chapel of the Relics

It is in the Sanctuary that the relics (a term used to refer to the body or part of the body of the blessed or saints) of the Good Angel of Brazil are kept, in a space known as the Chapel of the Relics – a circular room with a triple-height ceiling, at the centre of which stands the tomb housing the mortal remains of the Mother of the Poor.

A place of devotion and faith, the Chapel of the Relics was opened on 9 June 2010, when the body of the then Venerable Dulce was transferred from the Chapel of St Anthony (located at the Sister Dulce Memorial) to its new resting place. The transfer took place following the exhumation of the nun’s body, which was then followed by a vigil.

In September 2019, the site underwent further renovation, resulting in the installation of a glass tomb featuring a life-size effigy of Saint Dulce of the Poor.

15. Church of Our Lady of Victory

Founded: 1561

Location: Praça Rodrigues Lima, in Largo da Vitória, Salvador

The Church of Nossa Senhora da Vitória has been listed by the National Institute of Historic and Artistic Heritage (IPHAN) for its historical significance; it is the second oldest church in Brazil. Built in the 16th century, the church houses a large number of Baroque sculptures from the 18th-century Bahian school.

The church has undergone several renovations over the years; the building is of great architectural beauty, with neoclassical features on its façade. Visitors to the church can also enjoy its stunning view of Todos os Santos Bay.

The sanctuary was built by the Portuguese in the 16th century and houses a large number of Baroque statues from the 18th-century Bahian school.

The building has been renovated on several occasions; in 1910, its façade was altered with the addition of neoclassical elements.

Due to these changes, the site is currently undergoing restoration work aimed at restoring the church to its original 20th-century architectural features. All the structures added to the church in recent years are being demolished.

16. St Anthony’s Church, Além do Carmo

Founded: 1594

Location: Largo de Santo Antônio, Salvador

The Church of Santo Antônio Além do Carmo was founded in 1594 in honour of Saint Anthony.

The Church of St Anthony was founded in 1594 in honour of St Anthony. Starting out as a small chapel, it has undergone a number of extensions and renovations, and has been the scene of Dutch invasions as well as Portuguese resistance.

Throughout its history, the temple has undergone a series of renovations, evolving from a small chapel into the church it is today.

Its façade is in the Rococo style and its interior features neoclassical carvings. It is a great place to watch the sunset and enjoy the festivities held in the church courtyard.

Its main church, the Church of Santo Antônio Além do Carmo, was rebuilt in 1813 on the site of an earlier church.

The Santo Antônio Além do Carmo neighbourhood is more than just a church

Santo Antônio Além do Carmo is a unique neighbourhood that forms part of Salvador’s historic centre and offers a blend of leisure, history, cuisine and architecture.

A visit to a religious temple, which dates back to the early years of Brazil’s colonisation and is situated on the edge of Salvador’s Historic Centre.

It is a series of enjoyable activities, starting with the tour itself, enriched by historical and cultural insights amongst the houses and cobbled streets of the Santo Antônio neighbourhood, and can be rounded off with one of the most beautiful views of the sunset over the Bay of Todos os Santos, accompanied by a beer, coffee, acarajé or pasteis, in one of the area’s countless little bars and cafés.

All this makes the Church of Santo Antônio Além do Carmo a delightful and most enjoyable walk for anyone visiting Salvador’s Historic Centre, whether they are a tourist or a local.

A single itinerary brings together centuries of Brazilian history, architecture in a variety of styles, the traditional culture of the people of Bahia, and the sweeping, beautiful view of the Bay of Todos os Santos.

The story goes that the Church of St Anthony was founded in 1594 in honour of St Anthony. Starting out as a small chapel, it underwent a series of extensions and renovations, and was the scene of Dutch invasions as well as Portuguese resistance.

It is said that Father Antônio Vieira, in order to prevent Dutch troops from capturing Salvador, used the church pulpit to deliver his sermon ‘At the Edge of the Trenches’, which, for 40 days, defended the city against Nassau’s troops.

Beyond the gates – During the colonial period, the city limits of Salvador ended where the lower part of Largo do Pelourinho is today, between the entrance to Baixa dos Sapateiros, Ladeira do Taboão (which leads to Cidade Baixa) and the path up to the Convento do Carmo.

The term “Além do Carmo” refers to its geographical location, as the church was situated beyond one of the entrance gates to the city of Salvador – the Portas do Convento do Carmo.

Until the early 20th century, the Santo Antônio neighbourhood was home to aristocrats, a fact reflected in the meticulous detail of the façades of the houses and the asymmetry of its streets. However,

There, in addition to the group of churches and the Convento do Carmo, are the Church of Boqueirão and, at the end, next to the former Forte do Barbalho (now Forte da Capoeira), the Church of Santo Antônio.

It is likely that the original chapel was enlarged as early as the beginning of the 17th century, as records show that, during the Dutch invasion of 1624, a ‘church’ on the site was occupied by the invaders, and worship was only resumed there after the battle the following year, which liberated the city.

The parish church was elevated to the status of mother church in 1648 and continued to undergo renovations right up until the 20th century! Its interior is adorned with stucco and neoclassical carvings, whilst its façade is typically Rococo.

Another interesting thing is that the church’s courtyard hosts rehearsals by the ‘De Hoje a Oito’ carnival group, ‘Bailinho’ parties and concerts by the Skanibais, amongst other events.

Next door, in the square of the same name, the traditional Feast of St Anthony takes place, beginning with the ‘trezena’ (the thirteen days leading up to the feast) from 1 to 13 June, featuring traditional June festival stalls selling food and drink, which officially mark the start of the June festivities.

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