The construction of forts and lighthouses in Salvador

The construction of fortresses and lighthouses was motivated by the need to protect the city of Salvador and ensure the sovereignty of the Portuguese over the discovered territory.

Religious aspects in the choice of location

Religious aspects were also taken into account when choosing the site for the city of Salvador. It was said at the time that “the higher a city is built, the closer it is to God and His protection”.

Military strategy and location

From a strategic point of view, the choice of the high mountains suited the military model that prevailed in Portugal at the time, since the plateau was located in the interior of the Bay of All Saints, an excellent anchorage for ships.

Based on this spatial configuration, a defensive structure was built in the places considered to be the most strategic. Anyone familiar with Salvador will agree that this was the right choice.

Where could you build better forts than those already built? Perhaps one on Itaparica Island, outside Salvador!

Weaknesses of the defensive system

As the city grew beyond its original walls, this system proved weak and ineffective. So much so that the Dutch and French bombarded it and took it with great ease.

However, this weakness and ineffectiveness was not due to the location of the forts, which we consider to be perfect. The problem lay in the extent of access by sea, which was open and vast, making adequate defence difficult due to the low firepower of the fortifications.

The top of Humaitá

Ponta do Humaitá is one of the most beautiful places in Salvador. Ships coming from the south, for example, passing close to the island of Itaparica, were completely immune to the batteries of the forts of Salvador.

Interview with Colonel Anésio Ferreira Leite

Let us look at a summary of the interview given to a media outlet by Colonel Anésio Ferreira Leite, President of the Brazilian Association of Friends of Military Fortifications and Historic Sites (ABRAF):

“Salvador once had more than 30 fortifications. Today there are only 11 left. We are throwing away our references and our roots”.

Main fortifications of Salvador

The first fort built was the Fort of Santo Antônio da Barra in 1534, also known as Farol da Barra (Barra Lighthouse). In 1696, when the lighthouse was built, it was called Vigia da Barra.

In 1650, the Fort of São Marcelo, also known as the Fort of the Sea, was built.

Also in Barra are the fortresses, Santa Maria and São Diogo, built between 1624 and 1638. Climbing up to Campo Grande are the forts of São Pedro and São Paulo da Gamboa, both built by the Dutch.

The Fort of São Paulo da Gamboa had the largest cannon in the city, weighing 13 tonnes. This equipment was moved to the front of the Headquarters of the 6th Military Region, in Mouraria.

At the entrance to the São Joaquim Maritime Terminal is the Santo Alberto Fort, or Lagartixa Fort, so called because it had small cannons that could be moved in all directions.

In the Santo Antônio district is the Fort of Santo Antônio Além do Carmo.

Why “Beyond Carmo”? Everything built beyond the North Gate was known as “Beyond Carmo”. The largest fortification in Salvador is the Fort of Our Lady of Mount Carmo, or simply Fort Barbalho.

Videos about the forts and lighthouses of Salvador, Bahia

History of the forts of Salvador, Bahia

The city of Salvador was founded with defence in mind, as the main objective of the Portuguese colonisers was to secure sovereignty over the newly discovered territory.

The fortresses were the main elements of the defence system of the colonial capital of Brazil. The old trenches, bastions and towers, which occupied strategic defensive positions, were reinforced with walls and gun batteries.

Some projects were the result of the creativity of the Portuguese military, while others were designed by military engineers from Italian and French schools hired by the colonial government. These projects took advantage of the natural conditions of the terrain, not only for defensive purposes, but also for their architectural plasticity.

When the first governor-general, Tomé de Souza, arrived at the ancient village of Porto da Barra in 1549, the site for the Portuguese colonial administration had already been chosen. On the orders of King João III, Tomé de Souza built the fortified city on the highest and most sheltered point, surrounded by almost impassable swamps and overlooking the entire Bay of All Saints.

The Portuguese began to implement a defence system that would last until the 18th century. The first military defence built was a large wall of rammed earth and clay, strong enough to withstand the arrows of the indigenous people.

Later, the wall was extended and reinforced with stone and lime, adding bastions facing the sea (where the corsairs approached) and towers built into the gates facing São Bento and Carmo.

In the 17th century, the old wall was replaced by an efficient deep defence system, with trenches, ramparts and fortifications built in strategic locations and armed according to the evolution of the art of war.

At the beginning of the 17th century, the threat of a major foreign invasion led to an increase in the number of fortified positions in Salvador. The line of defence, formed by the forts of Santo Antônio da Barra, Mar (now São Marcelo), Santo Alberto, Nossa Senhora do Mont Serrat and Itapagipe, as well as the battery of fortifications at Ribeira das Naus, was already sufficiently structured to impress the invaders.

In 1624, this defence system organised a heroic resistance against the Dutch, but was defeated by the overwhelming superiority of the enemy.

With the reconquest of Salvador by the Portuguese and Spanish a year later, the defensive system was rebuilt and new forts were built, while others were repaired and expanded. This allowed the city to repel a new attack in 1638 by the powerful Dutch armada under the command of Prince Maurício de Nassau (who had already taken Recife). This victory shattered the myth of Dutch invincibility and gave birth to the mystique of Indomitable Salvador.

1. Chronology of the construction of the forts of Salvador

From the end of the 16th century to the Dutch invasion

• The Saint Albert Tower
• Fort of Santo Antônio da Barra
• Monserrate Fort
• Fort of Lagartixa

The fortifications after 1625

• The defences of Porto da Barra – Forts of Santa Maria and São Diogo
• The Sea Fortress or Fortress of Our Lady of Pópulo and São Marcelo

The fortresses of the 18th century

• Fort of Saint Peter
• Battery of Gamboa
• Fort of Saint Anthony
• Beyond the Carmo
• Barbalho Fort
• Jiquitaia Fort
• Distinguished Missing Persons

2. Discover the forts and lighthouses of Salvador, Bahia

2.1. Barra Lighthouse or Santo Antônio da Barra Fort

Barra Beach, Avenida Oceânica

História do Forte de Santo Antônio da Barra em Salvador

The Fort of Santo Antônio da Barra, popularly known as Farol da Barra, is located at the tip of the border between the Atlantic coast and the bay of Baía de Todos os Santos (formerly Ponta do Padrão). The fort offers beautiful views of the sea and it is impossible not to be impressed by its grandeur and elegance.

This is the oldest military building in Brazil, dating back to 1534. The original lighthouse was installed in 1698 at a height of 37 metres above sea level and was the first lighthouse in the Americas.

Between the 17th and 18th centuries, the fort was given an irregular star shape, with four indented sides and six projecting sides, representing the new style of Portuguese military architecture. Lanterns powered by whale oil signalled the entrance to the bay to sailors.

The lighthouse was renovated in 1839, 1890 and 1937, when it was electrified and the kerosene light was removed. At present, the light has a range of 70 km for white light and 63 km for red light.

It is interesting to note that, due to the strong Catholic influence in Brazil, the fort adopted Saint Anthony as the first patron saint of Salvador, granting the saint’s image a military rank of soldier. The saint, or rather his image, received promotions and pay for centuries, only being stripped of his pay in 1912, when he held the rank of Lieutenant Colonel.

The Fort of Santo Antônio da Barra is one of the landmarks of the Salvador coastline and a major postcard image of Barra Beach. Built between 1583 and 1587, it is part of the Fort of Santo Antônio da Barra and houses the Nautical Museum of Bahia.

In 1501, during the first exploratory expedition to Lusitanian America, the Portuguese landed at Barra, negotiated with the natives and established their claim to the land. It was All Saints’ Day and they named the large bay after the holiday. This place, which marks the entrance to the Bay of All Saints, became known as Ponta do Padrão and later Ponta de Santo Antônio.

The Fort of Santo Antônio da Barra, the first in Brazil, was first built around 1536 by Francisco Pereira Coutinho, the grantee of the Captaincy of Bahia. It was renovated and enlarged between 1583 and 1587. Between 1596 and 1602, the fort was rebuilt in stone and lime as an octagonal tower, a project attributed to Portugal’s chief engineer, Leonardo Torriani of Cremona.

In addition to the lighthouse, the fort houses the Bahia Nautical Museum and a café. Climbing the lighthouse tower, which has a leisurely 94 steps, is an enjoyable experience. Once at the top, you can enjoy panoramic views of Barra and the sea, and get up close to the century-old machinery of the lighthouse’s lighting system.

Shipwreck of the galleon Santíssimo Sacramento, which led to the construction of the BARRA LIGHTHOUSE.

Naufrágio do galeão Santíssimo Sacramento em 1668

The galleon Santíssimo Sacramento had left the Tagus as the flagship of a fleet of 50 merchant ships belonging to the Companhia Geral do Comércio do Brasil (General Company of Trade of Brazil). The ship was carrying João Corrêa da Silva, on his way to become governor of Bahia, as well as tin and copper for the Salvador shipyard. However, the galleon sank in a storm on 5 May 1668.

As it approached Salvador, the galleon encountered strong winds from the south, which prevented it from entering Bahia by the normal route. The ship collided with the Santo Antônio sandbank, drifted for several hours and sank during the night, around 11pm.

The acting governor, Alexandre de Sousa Freire, sent all the fast boats and experienced sailors to Ribeira as soon as he heard of the accident. However, due to the long distance to be covered at that time of year, they did not arrive until dawn.

As described by Sebastião Rocha Pita in “História da América Portuguesa” (History of Portuguese America) (Lisbon, 1730):

“They found the ship broken in pieces, and a great number of bodies, some still alive, wandering about the seas, others already dead on the sand… Only a few people were saved, whose lives were saved by the luck and diligence of the fishermen of these beaches… and a few who managed to reach land on the mercifully broken planks”.

There is disagreement about the number of people on board the Sacramento; some say 800, others 400. It is known that only about 70 people were saved.

After three centuries at sea, the galleon’s hull was found by fishermen who noticed that their nets were snagging on the seabed. What remained of the Sacramento lay 15 metres deep, near a steep slope. The hull then slid down this slope and came to rest at a depth of 25 to 30 metres.

See also History of the Foundation of Salvador, Bahia , Historic Centre of Salvador and History of the Fort of Salvador.

and History of the Fort of Santo Antônio da Barra in Salvador.

2.2. Itapuã Lighthouse

Striped in red and black, the lighthouse has inspired verses and songs. Once a point of reference for boats travelling along the coast, today it is a poetic and bucolic landmark for anyone wishing to spend an afternoon in Itapuã.

Built in 1873 by engineer Zózimo Barroso with his own funds, the lighthouse was designed to signal the sandbanks in the area and to guide maritime navigation in Salvador. This lighthouse is located 23 km from the Barra lighthouse.

Its cast-iron tower is 21 metres high and stands on a concrete plinth. It is connected to the beach by a concrete bridge.

Originally painted earth purple, since 1950 the lighthouse has kept its horizontal stripes painted red and white.

2.3. Fort of Our Lady of Mont Serrat or Monserrate

Humaitá Point

História do Forte de Nossa Senhora de Monte Serrat

Built between 1583 and 1587 in a bay on the northern edge of Salvador, the Fort of Our Lady of Monte Serrat replaced the original Fort of São Filipe. The fort was shaped like an irregular hexagon, with circular towers at the corners covered by domes. A drawbridge connected the ramp to the terrace, and on the ground floor two barracks surrounded the entrance.

In May 1624, the fort took part in the fighting during the invasion of Bahia, preventing the Dutch from landing, but was eventually taken by the enemy in a new attack on the city. The governor general, Diogo de Mendonça Furtado, was imprisoned and the capital of the State of Brazil was conquered by the Dutch nobleman Johan Van Dorth. A plaque in front of the fort reminds visitors: “On the 17th of July 1624, the Dutch general João van Dorth was killed in this place”.

The Fort of Monte Serrat is of great historical importance, having been indirectly involved in the Sabinada and the Christie question in the 19th century. It is recorded that the fort was visited in 1859 by the Emperor Pedro II of Brazil, who noted in his travel diary: “28 October (…) I went to the Fort of Monserrate, which is abandoned, the inscription on the gate having been chipped away.

It has a beautiful view, and [engineer André] Przewodowski, who lives nearby, said that no one had ever died there from yellow fever or cholera.

The fort is considered one of the special treasures of Salvador, an example of bastioned military architecture (also known as “Italian layout”, “star fortification” or “modern fortification”), the oldest Brazilian fortification with its original configuration and one of the best military works of colonial Brazil.

With simple facilities, the fort displays several paintings about the defensive system of Salvador, the Dutch invasion of Bahia, historical flags of Brazil and more. It is a real historical treasure.

Construction of the fort began in 1583 and, until its completion in 1742, it was the scene of battles and resistance against the Dutch. Today it houses the Naval Museum with various military objects and weapons. The view of the Bay of All Saints and the Island of Itaparica is a sight to behold.

The army fort of Nossa Senhora de Monte Serrat is considered by many to be the most beautiful military structure of the Brazilian colonial period. Construction began in 1583 in a strategic position at the tip of the peninsula, overlooking the city’s port. Completed in 1742, the fort remains a command centre flanked by circular bastioned walls and equipped with nine cannons.

Since 1993, it has housed the Naval Museum, with civil and military weapons, some of which were used by the army in the past. The view from the entrance to Todos os Santos Bay is spectacular, with the city of Salvador on one side and the island of Itaparica on the other.

History of the Fort of Our Lady of Monserrate

2.4. Santa Maria Fort

Porto da Barra Beach

The Fort of Santa Maria, with Italian architecture, was built before the Dutch invasion and is one of the oldest architectural structures in the city. The cannons are still there, aimed at possible invaders coming from the sea. The building also houses an old gunpowder room.

Construction of the fort began in 1614, based on a design by Francisco de Frias da Mesquita (1578-1645), chief engineer and director of fortifications in Brazil. It was rebuilt in stone and lime in 1696, according to the design of the engineer José Pais Esteve. The current basic structure of the fort dates from this period.

Its façade still bears the emblem of the Brazilian Empire. It was listed in 1938 by the National Institute of Historical and Artistic Heritage (IPHAN) and is managed by the Navy. Since May 2016, it has housed the Pierre Verger Space for Bahian Photography.

Today, in addition to the Pierre Verger Space, the Santa Maria Fort has an open space that allows visitors to enjoy other views of the Bay of All Saints. Small, delicate and graceful, it is one of the many priceless treasures of Salvador.

Video about the Fort of Santa Maria, which drove the Dutch out of Brazil

2.5. Fort of São Diogo

The Fort of São Diogo, located at the Base of Morro de Santo Antônio, was built in response to the weakness of Salvador’s defences during the Dutch invasion of 1624. At the time, Portugal, and therefore Brazil, was under Spanish rule (the so-called Iberian Union). Felipe IV, King of Spain and personal enemy of the Dutch, mobilised a huge war fleet that managed to retake the city a year later.

The Dutch, who did not give up, launched successive attacks to try to retake the city. To prevent this, Spain built a defensive system and equipped Salvador with fortifications distributed along the Bay of All Saints, Barra and Itapagipe. In a short time, dozens of forts formed a chain of fire, making Salvador the best protected city in the Americas. After the construction of these forts, the city was never again invaded.

It was in this context that the Fort of São Diogo was built. It was built between 1626 and 1635, after the expulsion of the Dutch invaders (1624-1625). Its position on the ground and its battery of cannons prevented further foreign incursions via Porto da Barra in 1638, and it was integrated into the defence system alongside the Fort of Santa Maria. Its present curvilinear layout was developed in the early 18th century.

The original Fort of São Diogo was built between 1609 and 1613 on the slope of the Morro de Santo Antônio, on the old structure of the castle of Pereira Coutinho, grantee of the captaincy. The original design is attributed to the chief engineer Francisco de Frias da Mesquita (1578-1645).

Beginning in 1626, the fort was rebuilt and modified between 1704 and 1722, when it received its current basic structure. Further renovations took place at the end of the 19th century.

História do Forte de São Diogo em Salvador BA

Since May 2016, the fort has housed the Carybé Arts Space and is now an important cultural centre in Salvador.

2.6. Fort of São Marcelo

Inspired by the Castello di Sant’Angelo (Italy) and the Torre do Bugio (Portugal), the Fort of São Marcelo, also known as the Fort of the Sea (formerly known as the Fort of Nossa Senhora do Pópulo), is located on a sandy promontory 300 metres from the coast of the Bay of All Saints, opposite the heart of the historic centre of Salvador.

With a circular shape and Renaissance style, its original wooden construction was completed in 1623 and covers an area of 2,500 m². For security reasons, access to the fort is limited to 300 people at a time.

The São Marcelo Fort has been the scene of several historical confrontations. In 1912, during a brutal action by the then president Hermes da Fonseca, the fort fired its cannons at the city it was supposed to protect, resulting in the tragic bombing of Salvador. The attack resulted in the destruction of the Governor’s Palace, the São João Theatre, the old Primatial See and the Public Library.

Being a relatively “new” structure, the fort retains the imperial coat of arms, mutilated by the Republic, above the Gate of Arms. Because of its location, beauty and originality, Jorge Amado named it “Umbigo da Bahia” (Navel of Bahia).

Originally built of wood on a reef, the fort was rebuilt after the Dutch invasion, transforming it into a solid fortress protecting the city centre. Today, it is open from Tuesday to Sunday, from 9 am to 6 pm.

Located in the middle of the Bay of All Saints, São Marcelo Fort was originally a triangular wooden bastion built in the early 17th century on a reef at the entrance to the port of Salvador. After the Dutch invasion in 1624, the fort was rebuilt in stone and given its circular shape to protect the colonial city centre from maritime attacks.

The fort became an imposing military structure, responsible for guarding the port and integrating the network of fortifications that defended Salvador against Dutch invasions, privateers and pirates. At the end of the 18th century, it served as a prison for students and important historical figures, such as the leader of the Tailors’ Uprising, Cipriano Barata, and the Farroupilha general Bento Gonçalves.

The Fort of São Marcelo is located opposite the pier and the Mercado Modelo. The city map highlights the entrance to the city of São Salvador da Bahia de Todos os Santos, with captions for the main buildings and fortifications, including the Fort of Santo Antônio da Barra, which is the only building with a direct name on the map.

See History of the São Marcelo or Sea Fort in Salvador.

History of the forts and defences of Salvador, Bahia

2.7. Fort of Saint Albert, Tower of Saint James or Fort of the Lizard

The Fort of Saint Alberto has its origins in the old Tower of Saint James, and its current building dates from 1694.

With the victory of Brazil in the War of Independence (1822-1823), the Fort of Santo Alberto played an important historical role, firing the shot that authorised the embarkation of troops to Portugal on 2 July 1823.

The fort was moved away from the sea to make way for the expansion of the Port of Salvador and, after the Second World War, was used to house the Army Veterinary Service.

Contemporary with the Fort of Santo Antônio Além do Carmo, the Fort of Santo Alberto was used to protect the anchorage and water supply for ships in the Água de Meninos area.

Nowadays, the Santo Alberto Fort, located opposite the entrance to the ferry terminal, is almost unknown in Salvador. Closed and taken over by cars, it lives in a state of relative ostracism.

Bahia.ws is the largest tourist guide for Bahia and Salvador.

History of the forts and lighthouses of Salvador, Bahia

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