The Baiana costume in Salvador, Bahia: Origin and Significance

Published on November 22, 2012 · Updated on October 8, 2026

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The Baiana costume in Salvador, Bahia: a cultural expression

The Baiana costume is one of the most recognisable symbols of Salvador and the whole of Bahia. Combining African, Portuguese and Islamic influences, it reflects the strength of African culture in Brazil and complements the rebolado and ginga of the Baianas as they move through the city’s streets, hills and festivals. In this guide, you’ll learn about the components of the costume, the origin of each element, the significance of the pano da costa, the turban and the balangandãs, as well as finding out when Baiana Day is and where to see the baianas in Salvador.

Baiana vendendo acarajé nas ruas de Salvador, Bahia — A woman from Bahia, dressed in traditional costume, selling acarajé on the streets of Salvador, Bahia

Video: the traditional Baiana costume

História e Origem do Traje das Baianas

What are the different parts of the Baiana costume?

The traditional Baiana costume is a set of traditional garments, very similar to those worn in Candomblé terreiros. There are costumes for every occasion, and the most common items are:

Calçolão: a garment similar to trousers, which reaches just below the calf and is worn under skirts.
Camisu: a white garment, usually featuring Richelieu embroidery, which reaches down to the knees.
Skirts: several layers, with starched petticoats to add volume. The outer skirt may be white, with a richelieu trim, or colourful and patterned, depending on the social and religious context.
Blouse or top: an embroidered blouse, sometimes with a sash tied at the waist.
Coastal shawl: a long piece of fabric worn over the shoulder or on the back, over a skirt.
Turban, headscarf or ojá: a piece of cloth tied around the head, the shape of which varies depending on the fabric and the way it is tied.
Necklaces, bracelets and pendants: accessories that complete the look.

Variety of costumes

The everyday costume is the simplest, worn daily in the terreiros, whilst costumes featuring Richelieu embroidery can be quite expensive. The Baiana costume takes on a special colourfulness when it comes to the Baianas at tourist events, who tend to wear more voluminous and eye-catching versions.

Samba school and Maracatu costumes

The costume worn by the baianas from the samba school is in a league of its own: it changes colour and design according to the theme of the school each year, just as is the case with the Baianas of Maracatu in the North-East.

Traje das Baianas — The Baianas’ traditional costume

Turban and balangandãs: the significance of the adornments

The Baiana turban is linked to the Islamic influence present in Afro-Bahian culture, brought by Muslim Africans. The clusters of balangandãs, on the other hand, are silver ornaments that became associated with Black and Creole women in Salvador in the 19th century.

What is a balangandã?

A balangandã is a pendant made of metal, usually silver, in the shape of a fig, a fruit, a medallion, a coin, a key or other symbols. Several of these are attached to a ring or chain, forming a cluster of balangandãs, worn by the baianas on festive occasions. Today, in many cases, these clusters have been replaced by beaded necklaces and bracelets.

Amulets and their functions

Figs, teeth and charms are used as amulets for protection, praise or to ward off the evil eye. The figa, in particular, is an amulet in the shape of a clenched hand, with the thumb between the index and middle fingers, used as a personal ornament, or to decorate the home or commercial premises.

Coastal bread (alaká)

The pano da costa, also known as alaká, is a fabric of African origin, woven on a handloom, usually in narrow strips which are then sewn together. In the traditional Baiana costume, it is the only element that usually deviates from white: the colour and texture are chosen to match the torço or ojá. In Salvador, groups such as the Tecelãs do Alaká keep this technique alive. There is more than one explanation for the name. One links it to the African coast from where the fabrics and many of the Africans brought to Brazil originated; another, to the fact that it is worn on the back. In Candomblé temples, the way the alaká is tied, as well as its colours and textures, can indicate the position and role of the person wearing it.

Peças de vestuário que compõem o traje das baianas — Items of clothing that make up the traditional Baiana costume

The history and origins of the Baiana costume

The traditional costume of the Baianas is a blend of Portuguese, African and Islamic cultures. The full skirts and starched petticoats are reminiscent of the style worn by Portuguese ladies; the necklaces and bracelets come from the African tradition; and the turbans are reminiscent of Islamised Africans.

Influence of the 19th century

From the 19th century onwards, in Brazil, this set of garments also came to be associated with the celebrations of Candomblé. To understand the context of these traditions, see also the history of Afro-Brazilian religions in Bahia.

Use and cultural significance

Today’s Baianas are descended from various African peoples brought to Bahia, such as the Yoruba (Nagô), the Mina, the Hausa and the Fula, and each tradition has left its mark on the way they dress. The filhos de santo wear the alaká wrapped around their torso, and the colour, fabric and way of wearing the garments vary according to the casa de santo and the orixá being worshipped.

The woman from Bahia in contemporary culture

The ‘baiana’ is a traditional figure from Bahia, so celebrated by Dorival Caymmi. Today, we can see the ‘baiana pregoeira’ – the street vendor – with her trays of traditional foods and sweets, on the streets, hillsides and beaches of Salvador, during rituals of Candomblé and Umbanda, and at religious festivals such as the Lavagem do Bonfim.

Acarajé-selling women from Bahia: Brazil’s intangible cultural heritage

The Craft of the Baianas of Acarajé, the tradition of preparing and selling acarajé and other Baiana dishes on trays, has been listed since 2005 in the Book of Knowledge of the IPHAN as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Brazil. This listing protects the craft, and the traditional costume forms part of these women’s professional identity. Find out more at acarajé and Afro-Brazilian cuisine.

Baiana Day in Salvador

In Salvador, on 25 November, Baiana Day (Acarajé Baiana Day), with a mass at the Church of Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos, in Pelourinho. In 2023, for example, the mass was followed by a procession of the baianas to Praça da Cruz Caída. The programme changes every year, but usually includes a procession, musical performances and other expressions of Afro-Bahian culture, such as Samba de Roda, Capoeira, the Olodum and the afoxés. The occasion is also a good opportunity to visit the Memorial das Baianas de Acarajé, at Cruz Caída, in Praça da Sé, in Pelourinho, which has been open since 2009 and is dedicated to the history of the craft.

Where to see the Baianas in Salvador

The baianas are a familiar sight in Salvador: they are often seen carrying their trays in Pelourinho, in other parts of the historic centre, on the beaches and at popular festivals. If you’d like to take a photograph, ask for permission first and, ideally, buy an acarajé: it’s a way of showing respect for their work and tradition. The baiana embodies the links to ancestral African heritage: oral tradition, cuisine, beliefs, dance, music, rituals, folk customs, folk art, folk medicine, folk poetry, folk songs, folk dances, folk rituals, folk traditions, folk customs, folk traditions, folk customs, folk traditions, folk customs, folk traditions, folk customs, folk traditions,&n cuisine, beliefs, dance, ginga and, above all, colour.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the traditional Baiana costume?

It is the ensemble of clothing and adornments traditionally worn by the women of Salvador and Bahia, with African, Portuguese and Islamic influences. It is very similar to the costume worn in Candomblé terreiros.

What are the different parts of the Baiana costume?

The most common items are the calçolão, the camisu, various skirts with starched petticoats, the smock or blouse, the pano da costa, the turban (torço or ojá), as well as necklaces, bracelets and balangandãs.

What is the ‘pano da costa’?

It is a fabric of African origin, also known as alaká, woven on a handloom and worn over the shoulder or on the back, over the skirt. In the traditional dress of Bahia, it is usually the only element that is not white.

What are balangandãs?

They are silver pendants in the shape of a fig, a fruit, a medallion, a coin, a key and other symbols, attached to a ring or chain. They became associated with Black and Creole women in Salvador in the 19th century and are worn on festive occasions.

When is Baiana Day in Salvador?

Baiana Day, or Acarajé Baiana Day, is celebrated on 25 November with a mass at the Church of Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos in Pelourinho, along with other cultural activities.

What is the Baianas de Acarajé Memorial and where is it?

It is a space dedicated to the history and traditions of the acarajé-selling women of Bahia. It is situated at Cruz Caída, in Praça da Sé, in the Pelourinho district of Salvador, and opened in 2009.

Is the craft of the acarajé-making women of Bahia part of our cultural heritage?

Yes. The craft of the Baianas de Acarajé has been listed in IPHAN’s Book of Knowledge since 2005 as part of Brazil’s Intangible Cultural Heritage.

Where can I see Baianas in Salvador?

In Pelourinho, in the historic centre, on the beaches and at popular and religious festivals, such as the Lavagem do Bonfim. Please ask permission before taking photographs and respect the work of the baianas.

Bahia.ws is the largest tourism and travel guide for Bahia and Salvador

Written by Willy Sievert

Editor of Bahia.ws since its founding in 2009. Based in Salvador, he travels frequently across the Northeast and all of Brazil to keep the guides up to date. Learn more about Willy Sievert →