Ilha de Maré (BA): beaches, how to get there and what to do

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Ilha de Maré (Maré Island) lies in the Baía de Todos os Santos (Bay of All Saints) and belongs to Salvador, although it is closer to Candeias and Madre de Deus. The boat crossing takes about 20 minutes from São Tomé de Paripe. On the island, moreover, there are no cars. As a result, visitors find calm beaches, mangroves, quilombola communities (descendant communities of escaped enslaved Africans), renda de bilro (bobbin lace) and one of the oldest churches in Brazil.

Quick summary – Ilha de Maré

  • Where it is: Baía de Todos os Santos; it belongs to Salvador.
  • How to get there: by boat from São Tomé de Paripe, in about 20 minutes.
  • Size: about 14 km², with 11 communities.
  • Beaches: Praia das Neves, Praia Grande, Santana and Itamoabo.
  • Culture: quilombola territory, renda de bilro and doce de banana na palha (banana sweet wrapped in dried banana leaves).
  • Note: there are no cars on the island, and facilities are basic; therefore, bring cash.
Praia das Neves on Ilha de Maré
Praia das Neves on Ilha de Maré

Where it is and how to get to Ilha de Maré

The island belongs to the municipality of Salvador, but it lies at the far end of the bay, near Candeias and Madre de Deus. In fact, it is one of the largest islands in the Baía de Todos os Santos.

Map of Ilha de Maré
Map of Ilha de Maré
  • From Salvador: head to the São Tomé de Paripe terminal in the Subúrbio Ferroviário. From there, boats reach the Santana or Botelho piers in about 20 minutes.
  • Other departures: there are also boats from Candeias and Madre de Deus; in this case, however, the crossing can take up to 45 minutes.
  • Schedules: boats start leaving very early, around 5 a.m., and the last return trip is usually in the late afternoon. However, everything depends on the tide, so check beforehand.
  • Schooner trips: many tours of the bay departing from Salvador also stop at the island.

Beaches of Ilha de Maré

The island’s beaches generally have calm, warm waters, surrounded by coconut palms and mangroves. For this reason, they are great for families.

Praia das Neves

Called the “Caribe soteropolitano” (Salvador’s Caribbean) by many, Praia das Neves has crystal-clear waters and a family-friendly atmosphere. In addition, it faces the historic Igreja de Nossa Senhora das Neves.

Igreja Nossa Senhora das Neves and Praia das Neves on Ilha de Maré
Igreja Nossa Senhora das Neves and Praia das Neves on Ilha de Maré
Calm waters of Praia das Neves on Ilha de Maré
Calm waters of Praia das Neves on Ilha de Maré

Praia Grande

Praia Grande is the largest beach on the island and the one with the best facilities. Long and peaceful, it also has simple beach huts that serve seafood.

Praia de Santana

Near one of the arrival piers, Praia de Santana has calm waters and, above all, plenty of local handicrafts for sale.

Itamoabo and Praia do Engenho

Itamoabo has a rustic setting and thus allows direct contact with the local community. Praia do Engenho, on the other hand, lies next to the Engenho de Maré community.

Praia de Itamoabo on Ilha de Maré
Praia de Itamoabo on Ilha de Maré
Praia do Engenho on Ilha de Maré
Praia do Engenho on Ilha de Maré

Nature: Mata Atlântica and mangroves

The island preserves stretches of Mata Atlântica (Atlantic Forest), coconut groves, banana plantations and extensive mangroves. These mangroves, in turn, are home to birds, fish and crustaceans, which provide a livelihood for many families. Therefore, it is worth bringing binoculars and respecting the protected areas.

Quilombola communities and handicrafts

Ilha de Maré has 11 communities, such as Santana, Praia Grande, Itamoabo, Botelho, Bananeiras and Martelo. Moreover, since 2017 some of them have formed the Território Quilombola da Ilha de Maré, recognized by Incra. According to the 2010 Census, about 93% of residents declared themselves Black; for this reason, the island is considered the neighborhood of Salvador with the highest proportion of Black residents.

The economy revolves around artisanal fishing, mariscagem (shellfish gathering) and family farming. In addition, women make the famous renda de bilro, straw baskets and the traditional doce de banana na palha.

Historic churches

Igreja de Nossa Senhora das Neves, linked to an old sugar mill, is considered one of the oldest churches in Brazil. Igreja de Nossa Senhora de Santana, in the village of the same name, is also worth a visit. Together, they show the island’s historical value since colonial times.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora de Santana, Ilha de Maré BA
Igreja de Nossa Senhora de Santana, Ilha de Maré BA

What to do on Ilha de Maré

  • Beach and swimming: especially at Praia das Neves and Praia Grande.
  • Donkey rides: the “jeguetour” (donkey ride tour) follows trails and visits villages; since there are no cars, it is a typical way to get around.
  • Food: moqueca, caruru, broths and fresh shellfish at the beach huts.
  • Handicrafts: renda de bilro, baskets and sweets, bought directly from the artisans.
  • Combine with: other islands in the bay, such as Ilha dos Frades and Ilha de Itaparica.

Practical tips

  • Bring cash, because not all beach huts accept cards.
  • Check boat schedules and prices before you go, since they depend on the tide.
  • Don’t leave litter, and don’t take shells or corals.
  • Ask permission before photographing people and religious festivals.

Frequently asked questions about Ilha de Maré

Where is Ilha de Maré?

It lies in the Baía de Todos os Santos and belongs to the municipality of Salvador.

In addition, it is close to Candeias and Madre de Deus.

How do you get to Ilha de Maré?

By boat, from the São Tomé de Paripe terminal in Salvador, in about 20 minutes.

There are also departures from Candeias and Madre de Deus.

What is the most beautiful beach on the island?

Praia das Neves is the most famous, with clear, calm waters.

Praia Grande, on the other hand, has the best facilities.

Is there accommodation on Ilha de Maré?

There are few options, and facilities are basic.

For this reason, most visitors make a day trip from Salvador.

Are the beaches good for swimming?

Yes, several have calm waters that are suitable for swimming.

Even so, always follow the advice of local residents.

Willy Sievert

Written by Willy Sievert

Editor of Bahia.ws since its founding in 2009. Based in Salvador, he travels frequently across the Northeast and all of Brazil to keep the guides up to date. Learn more about Willy Sievert →

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