Lucena, Paraíba: beaches, Bonsucesso, how to get there

Published on August 16, 2014 · Updated on October 28, 2026

Home » Paraíba Travel Guide » Lucena (PB): beaches, Bonsucesso and how to get there from João Pessoa

Lucena is a municipality on the northern coast of Paraíba, about 50 km from João Pessoa. It has around 15 km of calm beaches, with coconut groves, natural pools and cliffs. In addition, it preserves the ruins of colonial churches, a lookout over the meeting of the Miriri River with the sea and the history of the old whaling station at Costinha.

Quick summary – Lucena (PB)

Where it is: on the northern coast of Paraíba, across the Paraíba River from Cabedelo.
Distance: about 50 km from João Pessoa by road; alternatively, by ferry from Cabedelo.
Population: 12,560 inhabitants (IBGE 2022 Census).
Beaches: Lucena, Costinha, Fagundes and Ponta de Lucena.
Highlights: the Bonsucesso ruins, the Mirante do Bonsucesso and the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Guia.
Carnival: the city gets packed, and it is also one of the liveliest celebrations on the coast.

Where Lucena is and how to get there

Many people think the city is part of João Pessoa, but it is a separate municipality. In fact, it lies on the northern bank of the mouth of the Paraíba River, opposite Cabedelo. Therefore, there are two ways to get there:

By ferry: from Cabedelo, the crossing to Costinha is quick; then you simply drive on to the beaches.
By road: it is about 50 km from João Pessoa, going around the estuary via the BR-101 and Santa Rita.

To plan your trip, also see the guide to the Paraíba coast.

See the map of the beaches of João Pessoa and Paraíba

Video about Lucena

Praia de Lucena PB00:45

Praias de Lucena na Paraíba04:12

Lucena - Reportagem07:05

Lucena PB - Drone

Praia de Lucena PB

Praia do Holandes em Lucena PB

Beaches of Lucena

The municipality’s beaches are generally calm and good for swimming and fishing. Moreover, at low tide, jangadas (traditional log rafts) take visitors to the currais de peixe (traditional fish traps) and the natural pools.

Praia de Lucena

The main beach has a long stretch of light sand, calm waters and plenty of coconut palms. It also has beach stalls serving ice-cold beer and fresh seafood.

Praia de Costinha

Costinha is quieter, with clear waters and fine sand. It is also where the ferry from Cabedelo arrives. For decades, in fact, a whaling station operated there until it closed in the 1980s; today, there is a campaign to create the Museu da Baleia.

Fagundes and Ponta de Lucena

Praia de Fagundes, a district of the municipality, has the feel of a fishing village. Ponta de Lucena, on the other hand, has a wilder look and, for this reason, appeals to those who prefer nature and peace and quiet.

Lucena sights and attractions

Ruins of the Igreja de Bonsucesso

In the village of Bonsucesso, near the Miriri River, stand the ruins of a church from the colonial period. Today, the stone-and-lime walls are held up by the roots of a gameleira (wild fig tree). As a result, the site has become one of the most photographed spots on the northern coast.

Mirante do Bonsucesso

After a short trail, you reach the top of a cliff with one of the most beautiful views in the region. From the lookout, you can see almost the entire length of the municipality’s beaches and, in addition, the meeting of the Miriri River with the sea.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Guia

Standing on top of a plateau, the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Guia was built between the 16th and 17th centuries and is listed as state heritage. In 2025, however, a landslide next to the church led to its temporary closure. Therefore, check whether it has reopened to visitors.

The patron saint is honoured, above all, at the Festa de Nossa Senhora da Guia, with processions, masses, traditional food and music.

Miriri River estuary

The meeting of the Miriri River with the sea forms a beautiful estuary that is rich in wildlife. There, you can take boat trips, go birdwatching and fish.

Sports and outings

Besides swimming, there are spots for diving, canoeing and other water sports. It is also worth taking the jangada trip to the fish traps, which appear at low tide.

History of Lucena

According to the IBGE, in 1596 the government of the captaincy granted land on the banks of the Miriri River to Benedictine friars. At the same time, the Portuguese passed through the area on their way to Baía da Traição. Before that, in fact, French ships anchored off the coast to trade pau-brasil (brazilwood) with the support of the Potiguara people.

Later, the Dutch tried to land there, but they were driven back. The municipality’s name, in turn, comes from a former resident who ferried passengers across the Paraíba River. Finally, the city ceased to be a district of Santa Rita under state law no. 2,664 of 22 December 1961.

Carnival and travel tips

With around 12,500 inhabitants, the city welcomes far more people during carnival, when it becomes packed and lively. So, if you go at that time, book your accommodation in advance.

Best time to go: from September to March, because it rains less.
Tides: first check the tide table for the jangada trips.
Combine with: Baía da Traição and the beaches of João Pessoa.

Frequently asked questions about Lucena

Is Lucena in João Pessoa?

No. It is a separate municipality on the northern coast of Paraíba, about 50 km from the capital.

However, you can easily go and come back on the same day.

How do I get to Lucena from João Pessoa?

By car, via the BR-101 and Santa Rita, or by ferry from Cabedelo.

The ferry, incidentally, arrives at Praia de Costinha.

What is the best beach in Lucena?

Praia de Lucena has the most facilities, while Costinha and Ponta de Lucena are quieter.

In general, they all have calm waters.

What is there to do in Lucena?

Visit the Bonsucesso ruins, climb up to the lookout and take a jangada trip to the fish traps.

It is also worth seeing the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Guia.

How many inhabitants does Lucena have?

According to the IBGE 2022 Census, it has 12,560 inhabitants.

Even so, the population grows a lot during carnival.

Written by Willy Sievert

Editor of Bahia.ws since its founding in 2009. Based in Salvador, he travels frequently across the Northeast and all of Brazil to keep the guides up to date. Learn more about Willy Sievert →