Corumbá MS: meaning, things to do and how to get there

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Corumbá, in Mato Grosso do Sul, lies on the banks of the Paraguai river, on the border with Bolivia, and is known as the “capital of the Pantanal”. Founded in 1778, it is one of the oldest cities in the state and, in addition, the fourth most populous, with 96,268 inhabitants (IBGE, 2022 Census). For this reason, it is also strongly influenced by the customs and traditions of the neighboring country.

Quick summary – Corumbá MS

  • Where it is: in western Mato Grosso do Sul, on the Paraguai river, on the border with Bolivia.
  • Distance: about 400 km from Campo Grande, via the BR-262.
  • Population: 96,268 inhabitants (IBGE, 2022 Census).
  • Area: about 64,400 km², the largest municipality in Mato Grosso do Sul.
  • Name: of Indigenous origin; the most frequently cited translation is “distant place”.
  • Highlights: Casario do Porto, Cristo Rei do Pantanal, Forte Junqueira, Forte Coimbra, the Estrada Parque and fishing on the Paraguai river.
View of the city of Corumbá MS on the Paraguai river
The city of Corumbá, in Mato Grosso do Sul

Corumbá, the capital of the Pantanal

In the old port of Corumbá, a row of grand mansions recalls the wealth of the early 20th century. At that time, merchants received goods from all over the world, which arrived via the Paraguai river.

Today, the city is best known as the main fishing destination in Mato Grosso do Sul. As a result, every year it welcomes thousands of anglers, who stay at riverside hotels or set off aboard hotel boats. For ecotourists, on the other hand, the big attraction is the Estrada Parque, which crosses a well-preserved area of the Pantanal.

Tourist map of Mato Grosso do Sul with Corumbá and the Pantanal
Tourist map of Mato Grosso do Sul

What does Corumbá mean?

The name Corumbá is of Indigenous origin. The most widespread explanation, in general, says that it comes from Tupi-Guarani and means “distant place”. However, there are other interpretations, and there is no single origin accepted by everyone.

According to the IBGE, the settlement was first called Arraial de Nossa Senhora da Conceição de Albuquerque and then simply Albuquerque. Finally, in 1878, when it became a city, it was given the name Corumbá.

How to get to Corumbá

  • By car: from Campo Grande, take the BR-262 for about 400 km. Along the way, incidentally, the road passes through Miranda and crosses the Pantanal.
  • By plane: the city has an international airport; however, scheduled flights vary with the season.
  • By bus: there are daily routes from Campo Grande.

Climate and best time to visit

First of all, the weather is hot for most of the year. In general, the dry season, between May and September, is the best time to see wildlife. During the piracema (the spawning closed season), on the other hand, which in Mato Grosso do Sul usually runs from November to February, fishing is prohibited.

Things to do in Corumbá MS

Corumbá is ideal for anyone who loves nature and history. After all, the city preserves old mansions, monuments, museums and viewpoints overlooking the Paraguai river and the Pantanal.

cidade de Corumbá MS

Corumbá MS - Cidade baixa, Orla do porto geral, casario, prainha e o museu da história do Pantanal

In addition, the city’s history was shaped by wars, invasions and conquests, which left their mark on today’s culture. So, here are the main attractions:

  1. Casario Histórico
  2. Casa do Massa Barro
  3. Museu de História do Pantanal (Muphan)
  4. Cristo Rei do Pantanal
  5. Forte Junqueira
  6. Porto Geral
  7. Catedral de Nossa Senhora da Candelária
  8. Hotel boats
  9. Forte Coimbra
  10. Instituto Luiz de Albuquerque (ILA)
  11. Santuário Nossa Senhora Auxiliadora
  12. Praça da Independência
  13. Border with Bolivia
  14. Estrada Parque Pantanal

1. Casario Histórico

A century ago, Corumbá had one of the largest river ports in Latin America. At that time, the waterfront mansions housed international banks, large warehouses and tanneries.

Old mansions of the Casario Histórico on the Corumbá waterfront
Casario Histórico, in Corumbá

Today, the ensemble is listed as heritage by Iphan. Among the most beautiful buildings, for example, are the Casa Vasquez & Filhos, from 1909, in Art Nouveau style, and the Wanderley Baís & Cia building. Moreover, in 2006 revitalization works began in the area under the Programa Monumenta.

2. Casa do Massa Barro

First of all, this is home to an artisans’ association that teaches and encourages young people from Corumbá to work with ceramics.

Ceramic pieces from the Casa do Massa Barro, in Corumbá
Casa do Massa Barro, in Corumbá

Visitors can watch the stages of the work and buy miniature animals, such as jaguars and the tuiuiú (jabiru stork), as well as figures of Nossa Senhora do Pantanal and Saint Francis. In fact, the house became famous thanks to the carnival designer Joãosinho Trinta, who brought the apprentices to decorate floats for the Rio Carnival.

3. Museu de História do Pantanal (Muphan)

In short, the museum tells the story of human settlement in the Pantanal, from archaeology to ethnology and regional history.

Building of the Museu de História do Pantanal at the port of Corumbá
Museu de História do Pantanal, in Corumbá

The building has three floors, with exhibitions on the “Dez Pantanais”, the Indigenous peoples, the Spanish conquest, the Jesuit missions, Portuguese rule and the Paraguayan War. There are also rooms about the railway and the port of Corumbá. In addition, the museum has a library, an auditorium and a space for temporary exhibitions.

4. Cristo Rei do Pantanal

Made by the artisan Izulina Xavier, the Cristo Rei do Pantanal stands on top of the Morro do Cruzeiro, at an altitude of 293 meters. From there, with a 360º view, you can see Corumbá, Ladário, Bolivia and the Pantanal.

Statue of the Cristo Rei do Pantanal on the Morro do Cruzeiro
Cristo Rei do Pantanal

The sunset is, without a doubt, one of the most beautiful in the region. Furthermore, on the way up to the Christ, sculptures by Izulina Xavier depict the 14 Stations of the Cross.

5. Forte Junqueira

The fort was built right after the Paraguayan War, in 1871, on high ground overlooking the Paraguai river and the Pantanal.

Walls and cannons of the Forte Junqueira, in Corumbá
Forte Junqueira, in Corumbá

In addition, its cannons were made by the German company Krupp around 1872 and were never used. The limestone walls are about three meters thick. The name, incidentally, honors the then Minister of War, Junqueira. Today, the fort lies within an Army area; therefore, visits require authorization.

6. Porto Geral

The port waterfront features century-old buildings, where the city’s commercial center was located in the early 20th century. At that time, in fact, Corumbá had one of the largest river ports in Latin America.

Today, it is home to tour agencies, restaurants and handicraft shops. For this reason, the port area is one of the city’s main outings, especially on weekends.

7. Catedral de Nossa Senhora da Candelária

One of the oldest churches in the state, the Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Candelária was built in the 19th century by Frei Mariano de Bagnaia. In 2021, moreover, it was listed as heritage by the Government of Mato Grosso do Sul.

Façade of the Catedral de Nossa Senhora da Candelária, in Corumbá
Catedral de Nossa Senhora da Candelária, in Corumbá

The eclectic-style church faces the Praça da República, where Corumbá was retaken during the Paraguayan War. On the altar, for example, there is a coat of arms of the Portuguese crown and the image of Nossa Senhora da Candelária, the city’s patron saint.

8. Hotel boats

The great dream of many anglers on the Paraguai river is to travel on a hotel boat. These are large vessels with cabins, full board and everything needed for fishing.

In general, the cabins also have a private bathroom and air conditioning. In addition, anglers have motorboats with a pilot and a cold room for the fish. Packages are usually sold to private groups, who choose how many days they want to spend on board.

Even though they are designed for fishing, hotel boats also appeal to ecotourists, especially because of the starry sky. See also the guide to fishing in the Pantanal and discover the fish of the Pantanal.

9. Forte Coimbra

The Forte Coimbra stands on the right bank of the Paraguai river, near the border with Bolivia and Paraguay. The Portuguese Crown began building it in 1775 to defend the colony’s western border against the Spanish and the paiaguá and guaicuru peoples.

Forte Coimbra on the banks of the Paraguai river
Forte Coimbra, on the Paraguai river

In 1801, the fort withstood a Spanish attack; even with few soldiers, the Portuguese held out against the bombardment until the enemy fleet gave up. Later, in December 1864, during the Paraguayan War, Paraguayan troops occupied the fort.

Today, it houses an Army base, with a small museum and a viewpoint overlooking the river. Access, however, is only by boat, from Porto Morrinho, near the BR-262 bridge over the Paraguai river.

10. Instituto Luiz de Albuquerque (ILA)

Historic building of the Instituto Luiz de Albuquerque, in Corumbá
Instituto Luiz de Albuquerque, in Corumbá

The building was constructed to house the Grupo Escolar Luiz de Albuquerque, in honor of the captaincy governor who founded Corumbá. In 1978, it became the seat of the Instituto Luiz de Albuquerque, a research and cultural center. Then, since 1997, it has served as the Casa da Cultura.

11. Santuário Nossa Senhora Auxiliadora

Façade of the Santuário Nossa Senhora Auxiliadora, in Corumbá
Santuário Nossa Senhora Auxiliadora, in Corumbá

Built in 1899, the sanctuary holds, for example, a life-size wooden sculpture of Christ on the cross, made by a local artist.

12. Praça da Independência

Bandstand and gardens of the Praça da Independência, in Corumbá
Praça da Independência, in Corumbá

Opened in 1917, the Praça da Independência has four marble sculptures representing the seasons of the year. In addition, there is an octagonal bandstand and mosaic paving.

13. Border with Bolivia

Corumbá is just a few kilometers from Bolivia. On the other side, the towns of Puerto Quijarro and Puerto Suárez have free trade zones, with electronics, cosmetics, clothing and Andean handicrafts.

To cross, however, Brazilians only need an identity document with a recent photo or a passport. Foreigners, on the other hand, should check whether they need a visa. When shopping, moreover, respect the duty-free allowance set by the Receita Federal.

Finally, the famous “trem da morte” (“death train”) departs from Puerto Quijarro and runs to Santa Cruz de la Sierra. Therefore, the route is very popular with backpackers heading on to Peru and Machu Picchu.

14. Estrada Parque Pantanal

The route of the Estrada Parque Pantanal follows the path opened by Cândido Rondon in the early 20th century for the telegraph lines. Until the BR-262 opened, in fact, it was the only overland access to Corumbá.

Map of the Estrada Parque Pantanal route, from Porto da Manga to Buraco das Piranhas
Map of the Estrada Parque Pantanal

It covers about 120 km of dirt road, with dozens of wooden bridges. In the rainy season, therefore, it is only passable with a 4×4 vehicle. On the other hand, the road crosses a beautiful area of the Pantanal, where you can see many animals and birds.

Dirt road and wooden bridge on the Estrada Parque Pantanal
Estrada Parque Pantanal

Along the way lies Porto da Manga, on the Paraguai river, where you cross the river by ferry. Further on, there are the Curva do Leque and the Passo do Lontra, with lodges for anglers. Finally, the road ends at the BR-262, at Buraco das Piranhas. Thus, it is one of the few places in the Pantanal where you can travel on your own; before you go, however, fill up your tank in Corumbá.

History of Corumbá MS

First of all, in 1524, the Portuguese explorer Aleixo Garcia, in the service of Spain, reached the Paraguai river region. After him, Spanish expeditions came in search of gold and silver.

To halt this advance, the Portuguese founded the settlement in 1778, by order of governor Luiz de Albuquerque. Later, the opening of the Paraguai river to navigation, after 1856, turned Corumbá into a major trading post.

During the Paraguayan War, however, the city was occupied and destroyed by the troops of Solano López in 1865. After the war, it was rebuilt and received immigrants from Europe and other South American countries. As a result, it came to have one of the largest river ports in Latin America.

In the 20th century, however, the arrival of the Noroeste do Brasil railway shifted the region’s commercial center to Campo Grande. Consequently, Corumbá came to depend on cattle ranching, mining in the serra do Urucum and, later, on fishing tourism and ecotourism.

Frequently asked questions about Corumbá MS

What does Corumbá mean?

The name is of Indigenous origin; the most frequently cited translation is “distant place”, from Tupi-Guarani.

Before 1878, however, the settlement was called Albuquerque.

Where is Corumbá?

In western Mato Grosso do Sul, on the Paraguai river, on the border with Bolivia.

Furthermore, it lies about 400 km from Campo Grande.

How many inhabitants does Corumbá have?

It has 96,268 inhabitants, according to the IBGE’s 2022 Census.

Thus, it is the fourth most populous city in Mato Grosso do Sul.

What is there to do in Corumbá?

Visit the Casario do Porto, the Cristo Rei do Pantanal and the Forte Junqueira, go fishing on the Paraguai river and drive the Estrada Parque.

You can also go shopping across the border in Bolivia.

When is the best time to visit Corumbá?

In general, from May to September, during the dry season, when it is easier to see wildlife.

During the piracema, on the other hand, between November and February, fishing is prohibited.

See more about the Pantanal

Willy Sievert

Written by Willy Sievert

Editor of Bahia.ws since its founding in 2009. Based in Salvador, he travels frequently across the Northeast and all of Brazil to keep the guides up to date. Learn more about Willy Sievert →

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