Home » Pantanal of Mato Grosso » Miranda, Mato Grosso do Sul: Rural Tourism Guide

The town of Miranda, in Mato Grosso do Sul, is a base for travellers crossing the southern part of the Pantanal, and there are a few ranches in the area where you can spend the day, stay overnight and go on some Pantanal tours.

The town of Miranda is situated 205 kilometres from the capital, Campo Grande.

On the outskirts of the municipality of Miranda, in Mato Grosso do Sul, lie some of the region’s most impressive farms that are open to the public, including the famous Caiman, home to Mato Grosso do Sul’s first ecotourism venture, which opened in 1987.

The town, which was founded in 1778, is situated on the banks of the River Miranda, one of the largest tributaries of the middle Paraguay River.

It has a typical small-town feel, with quiet, tree-lined streets. In the evening, young people gather in the bars along Afonso Pena Avenue.

The building of greatest historical and architectural significance in Miranda is the old railway station, which has housed the Casa do Artesão and the Municipal Department of Tourism and the Environment since 2002.

Tourist Attractions in Miranda, MS

1. Terena Indigenous Culture Reference Centre
2. Reino Selvagem Breeding Centre
3. Cattle Procession Show
4. Santo Antônio Sugar Mill
5. Our Lady of Mount Carmel Parish
6. Farm Hotel in Miranda, MS – Rural Tourism

1. Terena Indigenous Culture Reference Centre

Built from wood, this centre is dedicated to preserving the culture of what is the largest indigenous nation in Mato Grosso do Sul, with a population of 15,000; of this total, almost half live in the Miranda region.

Information panels tell the story of the Terena people and their customs, and a small exhibition displays clay artefacts made by the Terena people. The centre is situated at the BR-262 roundabout, next to the Municipal Department of Tourism and the Environment.

2. Wild Kingdom Breeding Centre

This is an initiative launched by a farming couple in 1989 to tackle the illegal hunting of caimans, which was a serious problem in the Pantanal during that decade.

At the facility, visitors can see the lagoon where hundreds of animals are kept during the breeding season, as well as the fattening ponds, which have a capacity of 12,000 alligators.

At the Cacimba de Pedra farm headquarters, where the breeding centre is located, a variety of alligator-based dishes are served.

3. Cattle Procession Show

When the flood season begins in the Pantanal and the water inundates the pastures, farmers are forced to move their cattle to higher ground, safe from the flooding.

Once the rains have stopped, the herd is taken back to its original winter pastures.

These migrations take place in groups known as ‘comitivas’ and can last from twenty days to four months. During the journey, which can cover up to 20 kilometres a day, around a thousand animals are herded.

Some farms in the Pantanal – Aguapé, Baía Grande, Pequi and Santa Inês, for example – take tourists on these incredible treks.

Traditionally, a procession consists of seven members – each of whom has a specific role.

The cook always rides ahead of the cattle herd to prepare the lunch and rest stops. He is held in high regard; as well as preparing the food, he is the one who sets up camp.

At the head of the herd is the ‘ponteiro’, the leader of the group, who is responsible for communicating with the herdsmen by blowing different signals on his horn.

On either side, the two flankers assist the lead herder in driving the cattle. At the rear, the person in charge of driving the herd is assisted by two catchers – cowboys responsible for rounding up any cattle that stray from the herd.

The daily routine of the cattle drive, which begins before sunrise, is governed by certain rules of conduct, which may vary: on foot, for example, it is not permitted to take off one’s hat during a meal. Another striking feature of the drives is a very special participant: the Pantanal horse.

This is a native breed that is exceptionally well adapted to local conditions; the animal has hooves that can withstand waterlogged areas, is adept at grazing on submerged forage during the flood season, and copes well with the demands of extensive livestock farming.

In addition to the Brazilian Association of Pantaneiro Horse Breeders (ABCC), founded in 1972, organisations such as the Brazilian Agricultural Research Corporation (Embrapa/Pantanal) and the Federal University of Mato Grosso do Sul carry out research and conservation projects for the breed.

4. Santo Antônio Sugar Mill

The Santo Antônio Sugar Mill, this historic building dating from 1900, was for many years a company that processed sugarcane by-products.

5. Our Lady of Mount Carmel Parish

Miranda is one of the oldest towns in Mato Grosso do Sul, having been founded on 16 July 1778.

The Nossa Senhora do Carmo Parish Church is one of the town’s centuries-old buildings, situated opposite Agenor Carrilho Square and flanked by buildings housing the Parish House (the former residence of the nuns), the Funlec school and the current headquarters of the Town Hall.

The church was built in 1931 in an eclectic style and is currently owned by the Diocesan See of Jardim.

6. Farm Hotel in Miranda, MS – Rural Tourism

1. San Francisco Farm in Miranda, MS
2. Baía Grande Farm
3. Caiman Ecological Refuge

1. San Francisco Farm in Miranda, MS

The highlight of this 14,800-hectare farm, which is dedicated to beef cattle and rice cultivation, is its day-use programmes.

The San Francisco Farm is situated 36 kilometres from Miranda; San Francisco can accommodate groups of over a hundred tourists in a single day. For those wishing to stay overnight, there is a simple guesthouse.

The farm is home to the Gadonça Project, which focuses on the study of jaguars, and welcomes volunteers for scientific tourism tours.

Tourist Attractions at San Francisco Farm

• Chalana boat trip

The river tour takes place on the São Domingos channel, a branch of the River Miranda. During the tour, you can spot herons, cormorants, kingfishers, socós and spoonbills, as well as giant otters and otters, which are rarer.

The programme lasts two and a half hours, with stops for piranha fishing.

• Night-time photography of wild animals

During the two-and-a-half-hour tour, in a four-wheel-drive vehicle, you’ll travel through irrigated fields and small copses.

Along the way, you’ll see tapirs, wolf cubs, anteaters, deer and, if you’re lucky, jaguars.

• Birdwatching

Those who enjoy this hobby, known as birdwatchers, usually use binoculars and field guides to help them identify the different species of birds.

At the San Francisco Farm, there are 346 species of birds, many of which are threatened with extinction, such as:

• Blue macaw (Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus),
• Crested Seriemas (Cariama cristata),
• Black-naped Cormorant (Sarkidiornis melanotos),
• Black-and-white hawk-eagle (Spizaetus melanoleucus),
• Goldfinch (Carduelis magellanicus), amongst others.

A key finding of the research was that the San Francisco Farm is a strategic stopover and feeding site for dozens of migratory birds from both the north – the Osprey (Pandion haliaetus), the Rice-thrush (Dolichonyx oryzivorus) and various species of sandpipers – and from the south: the Coscoroba (Coscoroba coscoroba), the Black-winged Stilt (Himantopus melanurus), the Paraguayan Snipe (Gallinago paraguaiae), as well as flycatchers such as the Savanna Flycatcher (Tyrranus savana), the Ruby-throated Flycatcher (Pyrocephalus rubinus) and others.

Some of these species number in the hundreds or even thousands, remaining on the farm for months until they return to their respective breeding grounds.

• Science tourism – there are two programmes

In both cases, participants can follow the fieldwork carried out by the Gadonça Project, which monitors the behaviour of jaguars living near cattle farms.

The aim is to find more effective ways of preventing attacks by wildcats on cattle.

• The ‘Scientific Research Tourism’ tour lasts between three and five days, during which lectures are given and jaguars fitted with radio transmitters are tracked.
• Another option is the ‘Volunteers in the Wild’ programme, which lasts at least two weeks. Once they have received their training, visitors can take part in all the tasks carried out by Gadonça, including checking camera traps, casting footprints, collecting faeces, and going on night-time excursions to observe jaguars.

Participants, who will be staying in shared accommodation, must be at least eighteen years old and in good physical condition.

Location

From Miranda, it is 36 kilometres along the BR-262, at km 583, heading towards Corumbá, to the entrance to the San Francisco Estate (there are signs on site indicating the entrance).

2. Baía Grande Farm

Situated on the southern edge of the Pantanal, 20 kilometres from Miranda, this farm offers accommodation and day-use options.

Visitors are welcomed by the owner, Alexandre da Costa Marques, a member of a traditional local family and a masterful storyteller of tales from the Pantanal.

The 1,800-hectare farm is also part of the CRAS programme; as the organisation’s biologists often stay in Baía Grande to monitor the reintroduction of certain species, it is possible to gain a first-hand insight into this wildlife conservation work.

The boat trip on Baía Grande – the beautiful 300,000-square-metre lagoon that gives the farm its name – is 6 kilometres from the main building.

Surrounded by woodland, particularly the carandá palm trees that tower nearby, the lake is ideal for motorboat trips or Canadian canoeing, as well as being a good spot for piranha fishing. The best time to visit is at dawn or in the late afternoon, when the temperature is milder and the birds and wildlife are most active.

Plan a visit to watch the sunset, but don’t forget to use insect repellent.

Tourist Attractions at Baía Grande Farm

• Horse rides and working with cattle

There are plenty of options for horse rides, either on trails outside the estate or within it.

Another suggestion is to get involved in working with the cattle, which is usually carried out by the herdsmen, who know the animals of the region well.

Children, the elderly and those who aren’t keen on horses can take a horse-drawn carriage ride, which is an equally interesting alternative.

• Night-time photography

The activity, which lasts around two hours, takes place in a four-wheel-drive pick-up truck with fixed seats in the back. At night, the light emitted by the ‘sinbim’ – a high-powered torch – is reflected in the animals’ eyes.

On the route between the headquarters and Baía Grande, you can spot alligators, as well as nocturnal mammals such as the small wolf and the giant anteater.

Near the bay, the croaking of the frogs is a spectacle in its own right.

Location

In Miranda, MS, take the dirt track to the Lalima indigenous village. It is 18 km to the entrance to the farm.

3. Caiman Ecological Refuge

Mato Grosso do Sul’s first ecotourism venture.

The Caiman Ecological Refuge is one of the most charming destinations in the Pantanal. Established in 1987 by the businessman and environmentalist Roberto Klabin, it is situated on the Caiman ranch, which covers an area of 53,000 hectares and combines livestock farming, scientific research and eco-tourism.

Refúgio Ecológico Caiman - Pantanal MS

Among the farm’s four comfortable guesthouses, the charming Baiazinha and Cordilheira stand out; both are situated some distance from the village, have their own facilities and are set amidst beautiful scenery.

The Caiman Ecological Refuge employs a team of university-qualified guides who are fluent in English and have extensive knowledge of the Pantanal’s flora and fauna.

They are the ones who lead the tours, always accompanied by local field guides.

Caiman offers a wide range of activities, all characterised by a special focus on guest safety and environmental conservation.

Sometimes, the attention paid to tourists is seen as a restriction on their freedom, and for this reason, the farm is not recommended for those who prefer to organise their own itinerary.

With the aim of preserving the ecosystem, the Dona Aracy Private Natural Heritage Reserve (RPPN) was established in 2004, covering an area of 5,600 hectares within the farm.

Wildlife Conservation Projects

The Caiman Ecological Sanctuary is home to two projects aimed at protecting endangered animals.

The Jaguar Project, a partnership between the Jaguar Conservation Fund (www.jaguar.org.br) and Conservation International (www.conservation.org.br), has, since 2002, been providing financial compensation to farmers whose livestock have been killed by jaguars, with the aim of preventing them from hunting the animals.

According to figures from 2006, eleven farms (covering an area of 325,000 hectares) take part in the programme, which also provides medical and dental care to workers on the estates.

Another project based at Caiman is the Arara-Azul project, which was set up in 1990 and involves research, management and conservation of this bird.

It is estimated that in the 1980s alone, around 10,000 blue macaws were smuggled for the foreign market; as a result of this trafficking, the bird features on the official list of endangered species maintained by Ibama and the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN). The project monitors 130 natural nests and 97 artificial nests, according to data collected in 2004 and 2005.

The results are encouraging: over the course of a decade and a half of work, the population of the species has tripled, reaching around 5,000 birds in the southern Pantanal region.

The project also has a base at the Araraúna guesthouse, which is owned by the University for the Development of the State and the Pantanal Region (Uniderp).

Tourist Attractions at the Caiman Ecological Refuge

• Safari

Set off in open-top vehicles to explore different landscapes in search of the Pantanal’s wildlife: there’s no shortage of incredible sightings throughout the tour.

• Walks

Twelve trails operate on a rotation system, a measure that helps to minimise the environmental impact. Almost all of them start in the vicinity of the guesthouses and wind their way through typical woodland.

It is not difficult to spot herds of peccaries and groups of capuchin monkeys along the way.

Depending on their luck, visitors may even spot the blue-crowned juruva (Momotus momota), a beautiful bird native to the Pantanal.

The tours last between one and a half hours and three hours. There are also options for photo safaris and night-time wildlife viewing.

In the Caiman region, which is teeming with wildlife, it is not uncommon to see groups of caimans, capybaras, blue macaws, curicacas and anteaters, amongst many other species – although the noise and fumes from the lorry carrying the tourists do cause a bit of a disturbance.

• Canadian canoe

In canoes that seat up to three people, visitors can explore the farm’s two bays. When paddling slowly close to the banks, the experience becomes even more rewarding, as you can observe the behaviour of herons, spoonbills, quero-queros, cabeças-secas and maguaris at close quarters.

Try sitting in complete silence to listen to the symphony of these birds. The tour takes about two hours, including a rest stop, but you won’t be getting out of the canoes.

• Rides

Whilst the horse-riding programmes at Caiman are quite strict when it comes to guest safety, they can become a little monotonous for more experienced riders.

For example, you’re only allowed to ride in single file. The ride lasts about three hours.

A trip along the Aquidauana River is one of Caiman’s most fascinating attractions, as it combines a photographic safari, trips on a traditional river barge and in a Canadian canoe, as well as walks along the riverbanks.

The distance between the headquarters and Aquidauana is 32 kilometres along dirt tracks, travelled in the back of a specially adapted lorry, from where one can admire the beautiful scenery of the Pantanal; some people have even spotted the rare jaguar along this route.

The activity, which is charged for separately, lasts four and a half hours.

• Birdwatching

Caiman offers a specialised programme for those interested in birdwatching, accompanied by a guide.

The tour is charged separately. For birdwatching groups, it is recommended that you book in advance.

• Arara Azul Institute

Embark on an adventure monitoring the blue macaw nests scattered throughout the sanctuary, accompanied by biologists from the Blue Macaw Project.

• Onçafari

Follow the movements of the jaguars that call the sanctuary their natural habitat. The tour is led by specialist guides from Onçafari, a pioneering initiative dedicated to the conservation of the species.

Location

At the Miranda roundabout, take the road towards Agachi and continue for 2 kilometres. From there, it is a further 36 kilometres along a dirt track to the village centre.

Frequently asked questions about Miranda, Mato Grosso do Sul

When is the best time to visit Miranda, MS?

The dry season, between May and September, is usually the best time for safaris and wildlife watching, as there is less rainfall and it is easier to access the farms.

How many days does it take to explore Miranda and the surrounding farms?

To visit the historic city centre and spend at least one night at one of the farms (San Francisco, Baía Grande or Refúgio Ecológico Caiman), you’ll ideally need 2 to 4 days.

Do you need to book Pantanal farms in advance?

Yes, particularly during the high season (May to September), as most farms limit the number of guests they accommodate at any one time in order to preserve the experience and the environment.

How do I get to Miranda from Campo Grande?

The town is about 205 km from Campo Grande and can be reached via the BR-262 motorway, the same route that leads to Corumbá.

Is Miranda a good base from which to explore the Southern Pantanal?

Yes. Miranda is regarded as one of the gateways to the Southern Pantanal, with a good range of farms offering rural tourism, wildlife watching and activities such as safaris, horse rides and boat trips.

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