Discover Alcântara: History, Culture and Attractions in Maranhão State
Alcântara, located in the state of Maranhão, Brazil, is a city rich in history and culture, and is a charming tourist destination.
Between the 18th and 19th centuries, Alcântara was one of the most prosperous cities in Maranhão. To explore this historic stronghold, take a boat trip from the Praia Grande neighbourhood in the historic centre of São Luís.
The city’s main attractions are the remnants of times gone by, such as the ruins of the Palácio Negro slave market and the City Hall building, which housed a public prison in the 18th century.
Other attractions include the Praça do Pelourinho, the Historical Museum and the ruins of the Igreja Matriz de São Matias and the Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo, where you can see the remains of two palaces built by families who rivalled each other to receive the Emperor Dom Pedro II, as well as the region’s beautiful beaches.
Access and Distance
The streets of Alcântara, just 22 kilometres from São Luís do Maranhão, take tourists on a journey through history.
Historical heritage
There are alternating ruins and houses that document the heyday and decline of the town, whose birth dates back to the beginning of the 17th century.
In the following centuries, Alcântara grew thanks to agriculture, mainly sugar cane and then cotton, supported by slave labour – the massive presence of African descendants is a legacy of this era.
Regional importance
At the beginning of the 19th century, Alcântara was the third most important city in the region, after Belém and São Luís. As with São Luís, the end of the slavery model contributed to its decline, but unlike the capital, many of its buildings became ruins.
A collection of more than three hundred buildings remains from the centuries of luxury, which were declared national heritage in 1948.
Modern contrast
The Placidness of the old town contrasts with the fact that since 1980 it has been home to a rocket launch base, 7 kilometres from the centre.
Visits and Attractions
Visits to Alcântara take place on Tuesdays from São Luís, by appointment only with the State Secretariat for Tourism. Alcântara lacks good hotels and accredited guides, so it’s worth a day trip if you’re in São Luís.
How to get there
The best way to get there from the capital is by speedboat from the waterway terminal: although it’s on the mainland, it can take up to two hours by car – on a very bad road – as opposed to one hour and fifteen minutes by boat.
The boats leave at 7am and 9am and return around 5pm, depending on the tide.
Alcântara Tourist Attractions
- Historical Museum
- IPHAN Historical House
- Churches of Alcântara
- Pillory
- Festival of the Holy Spirit
- Beaches and Nature
1. Historical Museum
This blue and white tiled townhouse had the honour of hosting Dom Pedro II.
When it was announced that the Emperor was coming to Alcântara, the Viveiros family, who lived in the house, began to prepare to receive him, as did the Ferreira family, who lived on the other side of the Plaza Matriz.
With the proclamation of the Republic, the visit was cancelled. What remains in the old Viveiros residence, which has been a Historical Museum since 1977, is an iron bed used by the emperor.
It’s one of the highlights of the house where the lawyer Clóvis Beviláqua lived. His desk, paintings, old photographs of the city, jewellery from the Church of São Matias and a collection of wooden saints complete the collection. Praça da Matriz, s/n, Historic Centre.
2. IPHAN Historic House
Its collection includes English and Portuguese objects from the period between the 17th and 19th centuries. A fine collection of tiles, paintings, furniture and porcelain are the main attractions. Praça da Matriz, 7, Historic Centre.
3. Alcântara’s churches
The postcard of Alcântara shows the ruins of a church – São Matias (Praça da Matriz, Historic Centre). There are reports that a chapel dedicated to the saint was built on the site as early as 1662.
Construction of the church itself began in 1648, but was never completed and was abandoned in 1884.
The Church of Nossa Senhora do Carmo (Largo do Carmo, Rua Grande, Historical Centre) dates from 1665 and its interior was restored in 2000, The high altar, sacristy, pulpit, tribune and balconies are remarkable for their exuberant rococo style.
The main nave contains ancient tombs and Portuguese tiles.
In the Church of Our Lady of the Black Rosary (largo do Rosário, rua Dr Silva Maia, Caravelas), the high altar stands out.
As in the whole of Brazil, in Maranhão this is the patron saint of the blacks; even today, in its cemetery, the festival in honour of São Benedito – another black saint – is celebrated on the first full moon of August.
4. The Pillory
When news of the abolition of slavery reached Alcântara, the pillory that stood in front of the Church of São Matias in the main square was hammered down – and disappeared.
It wasn’t found again until 1948 by a team from the Rondon Project, who were working in the city when it was listed.
Made of stone, this cylindrical column, almost 5 metres high and 40 centimetres in diameter, is today a symbol of a time that has passed but, like everything that is history, will not be erased.
5. Feast of the Divine Holy Spirit
Of Portuguese origin, the festival of the Divine Holy Spirit arrived in Maranhão in the 17th century, brought by Azoreans.
Today, it lasts for two weeks in May (the date is movable) and mobilises the entire population, especially those of African descent.
The festival, one of the most important in Brazil, begins on the Wednesday before Pentecost Sunday, when the 10-metre-long Mastro do Divino is taken from the harbour to Matriz Square, where it remains for the duration of the festival.
The flag of the Divine is hoisted at the top of the mast.
On what is known as Ascension Thursday, a colourful and lively procession made up of mestre-sala, caixeiras, bandeirinhas and a orchestra makes its way to the Casa do Divino (House of the Divine), the residence of the Emperor or Empress – the characters change every year – who joins the group and accompanies it on the walk to the Carmo Church, where Mass is said and Litanies are sung.
There the sovereign is crowned and a white dove, symbolising peace, is released. The procession then returns to the House of the Divine, where the offerings are served to the entourage: goblets of liqueur, cups of chocolate, cakes and the traditional doce de espécie, made by Alcântara’s pastry chefs, who keep the recipe a secret.
The festival continues with the participation of various characters: on Saturday and Sunday, the Royal Butler welcomes the court and the jesters to his home; the following week, the Lower Butlers do the same.
On Friday, several flower-decorated oxen roam the city before being killed on Saturday morning, when the emperor or empress and the butlers distribute alms.
On Sunday, after a large mass and lunch at the ruler’s house, the emperor or empress is chosen for the next festival.
6. Beaches and nature
- Itatinga Beach: A quiet beach, perfect for relaxing and enjoying the natural beauty.
- Cururupu Extractive Reserve: A protected area offering opportunities for ecotourism and wildlife watching.
History of Alcântara
The date of the foundation of Alcântara is not exact, but it is certain that in 1612 there was a group of villages to which it belonged, under the name of Tapuitapera (land of the Indians).
Relations with the French
With the arrival of the expedition of Daniel de La Touche, Lord of La Lavadière, and the constant infiltration of the native tribes by the French, friendly relations were established between the Indians and the French. The latter built a chapel on the site.
Portuguese rule
After the expulsion of the French, Portuguese rule was established and the importance of the village did not diminish. Between 1616 and 1618, Portuguese colonisation began on the site, with a small prison that the Indians destroyed years later.
The whole area – including the Indians who lived there – became the property of Matias de Albuquerque. A garrison was established there, which was destroyed during an Indian uprising, and in 1621, because of the economic and strategic importance of the Maranhão region, the Portuguese Crown created the Colonial State of Maranhão, consisting of the independent captaincies of Maranhão and Grão-Pará.
Captaincy of Cumã
With the division of the captaincies of Maranhão and Grão-Pará, Tapuitapera became the head of the captaincy of Cumã, which the first governor of Maranhão, Francisco Coelho de Carvalho, gave to his brother, Antônio Coelho de Carvalho, in 1624. In 1641, during the Dutch invasion, the village was abandoned after a short period of occupation, and in 1648 it was elevated to the category of town, with the name of Alcântara.
Churches and mills
By this time there was already a stone and lime church dedicated to St Bartholomew, and the first mills were built in the region.
The economy
Alcântara gradually prospered in all sectors and became the largest production centre in Maranhão, where the great fortunes of the time were built up thanks to the large number of slaves.
The local economy was diversified, with emphasis on cotton, sugar and fishing. European influence was evident in the plantations, which were often run by landowners who sent their children to study in Coimbra, Portugal, bringing back new ideas and agricultural practices.
The region also acted as an important trading post, facilitating the trade of foreign products or products from other parts of Brazil that were sent to the interior of Maranhão. This commercial dynamism contributed to the growth and economic development of the city.
The decline
Gradually, however, Alcântara lost its importance in Maranhão’s production, and the reduction in economic activity was reflected in social life.
The decline began to accelerate after the abolition of slavery, when the economy based on slave labour collapsed.
The settlement of other regions of Maranhão also contributed to the decline of the local population and trade.
Competition from São Luís, with its infrastructure and resources, and the migration of families in search of better opportunities, led to a process of irreversible decline for Alcântara.
Although the town was elevated to city status in 1836, its greatness did not last long.
However, the greatness of the past has left its mark on the valuable and beautiful 18thcentury architectural complex, of which the iron balconies and stone walls scattered throughout the town are the most notable.
Travel tips
- Best time to visit: The dry season, from June to December, is generally the best time to visit, as the rains are less frequent.
- Accommodation: Alcântara offers a variety of accommodation options, from charming pousadas in colonial mansions to more modern options.
- Food: Try typical Maranhão dishes such as arroz de cuxá, fried fish and prawns.
Alcântara in Maranhão Guide
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